I’ll start with a confession of bias: I love J. Crew. I wear something from them almost every day, and while I agree with much of the criticism of the brand, I plan on going to the grave wearing my classic chino shorts. Unless it’s fall, of course; in that case, they can bury me in one of my unstructured Ludlow sport coats. Or, if it’s winter, I have a lovely peacoat I bought in 2012. The point is, J. Crew was there at the beginning of my fashion journey, so it’s only right for it to be there at the end.

Jokes aside, the brand really is special to me. The first J. Crew I entered was at a mall in Cambridge, Massachusetts about fifteen years ago. I had just earned my captain’s license and was working for a tour company running boats up and down the Charles River. My boss was a quintessential yacht-owning, mayflower New Englander, so I wanted to improve my wardrobe. I had a slight problem though. I was too old for stores like Abercrombie, too young for Brooks Brothers, and too broke for Ralph Lauren. So, there was really only one option for somebody with vaguely nautical aspirations, an expensive (but not Ivy League) degree, and a bit of extra cash thanks to a new job: J. Crew.

This one was up at the top of the escalator by the food court. In those days, I spent a lot of time at the mall food court, so we were a perfect match. Eventually, I caught sight of the happy, beachgoing models in the window, and walked in, undoubtedly still eating a D’Angelo’s sub. Though I didn’t yet know how to wield the navy blazer vernacular — OCBDs and three-roll-two’s may as well have been horse-betting terms — the marketing team at J. Crew knew how to speak to me: “These, young Millennial, are the clothes you’ve been looking for.”

What made J. Crew attractive was simple. The brand took the generational wealth ethos I had come to associate with blazer-clad old timers eating clams on Martha’s Vineyard, and updated it for a modern twentysomething. These weren’t, in other words, clothes to wear while sitting with a glass of bubbles on your Hinckley yacht: these were for waiting in line at a pop-up brewery while your dad sipped bubbles on his Hinckley yacht. Or, indeed, for arriving to work at a small company owned by an old-monied Massachusetts family.

What kept me coming back to J. Crew, though, was their cut. Even if I liked the styling of the old guard manufacturers like J. Press and Brooks Brothers, their loose-fitting tailoring was a product of a different era. This was, after all, the heyday of skinny jeans and painted-on band tees. One cannot go directly from Gap jeans and Fall Out Boy shirts to Madison Cut khakis from Brooks Brothers. A stop-gap is needed, and that’s what — to me anyway — J. Crew offered.

The internet can talk about “drape” all it wants, but if I don’t feel comfortable in clothes, I won’t wear them. I remember leaving that store by the food court quite happy that my plaid OCBD that looked like Polo and fit like Gap. Unlike with chain-brand submarine sandwiches, I’ve been hooked ever since.

And, boy, did I get a lot of milage out of that particular shirt. It played a starring role in my first date with my now-wife, it went with me on my first ever trip abroad, and I have two photos of me at company Christmas parties wearing it under a hand-me-down sport coat.

Besides my obvious emotional connections to the brand, there is something comforting about finally finding a brand whose clothes you are as close as possible to fitting into off the rack. My tastes have certainly evolved since those days, to the point that when I walk into a J. Crew now, I tend to notice all the brand’s shortcomings: puny collar rolls, polyester blends, above-the-butt blazers. Still, it’s hard to tell if the brand has changed, or if I have.

One of the problems with getting deeper and deeper into a subculture is a weird sort of myopia when it comes to the mainstream. Go down the hi-fi rabbit hole, and you’ll look back with disdain on the cheap pair of headphones you first heard your favorite song on. Start getting into whiskey, and that Jack and Coke you drank at your first college party makes you cringe. Spend too much time on fashion forums, and you’ll get angry when you walk into a store that sold you the shirt you wore when you fell in love with your wife.

I’m not here shilling for a clothing company, though. I can acknowledge its faults. Their catalogues are stuffed full of dubious materials and strange patterns(although that is perhaps changing if you read the recent review). What this means in practice is that shopping at J. Crew is kind of like shopping at T.J. Max. You have to sift through a lot of crap to find something you might like. And there is a lot of crap. My J. Crew t-shirts have to be washed separately because their colors run. My J. Crew OCBDs have collar-rolls fit for ants. My J. Crew shorts seem to get smaller every wash cycle. And all that is about stuff I own. Just browsing through their recent offerings online is enough to make one question who the company thinks it’s marketing to in 2026.

Yet, J. Crew still occasionally puts out some winners. My most recent obsession from the brand was a three-roll-two, unstructured tweed suit in slim fit. It’s hard to imagine anybody complaining too much about this piece. It’s a magnificent ode to classic American tailoring, made from English wool, and it cost significantly less than $1,000. Most importantly, though, J. Crew was able to craft a tweed suit that actually looks good on me. Needless to say, when I saw a 20-BMI mannequin wearing tweed in the J. Crew window, I jumped for joy. Tweed, three buttons (one rolled, of course), and no shoulder structure, all cut to fit a pre-dad-bod figure? Sign me up.

The suit fit so well, in fact, I couldn’t even hear my wife when she asked, “Ok, but when will you ever wear a tweed suit, though?”

But these moments are getting rarer and rarer. The truth is, even as a J. Crew fanboy, the brand is more or less relegated to the “secondhand or on-super-sale” category. I suspect, though I’m not a businessman, that being known as the good-on-sale brand is not a particularly powerful position to be in. Yet, here we are. The future of J. Crew may be uncertain, but I will always have my collection of J. Crew blazers and sport coats I’ve purchased from eBay over the past five years. On some of them, I’ve replaced the buttons to make them more casual; on others, I’ve had to have the pockets resewn; and one I’ve stained so badly I can’t even donate it. But, and this is a big but, none of them had to be tailored to fit me.

I’ve always been a bit funny about brand loyalty. In my defense, I don’t think what I have with J. Crew is loyalty. Rather, it’s something closer to nostalgia. The fact is that J. Crew’s clothing was a gateway drug into to the world of menswear. It was affordable, looked good, and fit well. As a result, in most photos of me from almost every stage of my adult life you’ll find some J. Crew. From my first date with my wife, to weddings and Christmas parties, to first days at new jobs, to beach holidays and weekend trips, to bringing my daughter home from the hospital, J. Crew has been one of my most-enduring wardrobe staples. It might be a “mall brand,” and it might have “fallen from grace,” but it’s my mall brand, and grace is overrated anyway. What counts in clothing, and really in anything, is how it makes you feel. And, mostly, J. Crew has made me feel good.

Styling by Jack Hidde

We at TNBC are always excited to talk about tailoring, and few mass market brands have experimented as vastly in the last four seasons as J. Crew. In the fall, we saw on offer heavy tweeds in less contemporary silhouettes, a decidedly fashion-forward departure from a decade of the Ludlow cut. This season, we see a new relaxed-fit, sand-colored suit in a merino and linen blend with very breezy pants and a proper jacket length (gasp). At $850, we expect this fabric to hold up in person with the luxurious appearance in the campaign styling. However, many sizes are already showing low or out of stock, so it seems this cut is hitting the mark for enthusiasts and the more mass market, summer wedding client. No doubt this would look fantastic (we’d like it with a tie, but the styling below is great as well) for an outdoor wedding or sitting at your favorite Mediterranean restaurant al fresco in mid July. This relaxed fit also comes in a cotton poplin for those more price-conscious. We are also happy to see this suit’s sharper, more sizable lapels, rather than the summer weight ludlow suits whose slim lapels can be a bit floppy during practical wear.

Little did we know during our first scroll through the online collection that there was something sitting near the bottom of the “New Arrivals” section that would confirm our suspicion that J. Crew is really trying to elevate itself above its mall brand reputation (besides year-over-year price increases). This is something that was quite staggering to see as an enthusiast, especially as someone that appreciates sticking to a dress code. The Relaxed-fit Tuxedo in English Fresco Wool may be the best spring season tuxedo we have seen on offer from the mass-market brands in years. The jacket is well proportioned, with grosgrain lapels and regular buttons for a touch of warm weather ease. The relaxed fit pant looks elegant and immediately elevates the entire rest of the ensemble, with a rise suitable enough to forego a cummerbund in favor of staying comfortable and cool. The one place it falls short is the absence of a side stripe, however we don’t feel that knocks it down too much due to some of the more relaxed details (like jacket buttons) in other parts of the suit.

Hence our name, we must highlight the legacy blazer in italian wool, which comes in a VBC cloth and features brass buttons (only two on the sleeves, a nod to more vintage styles we appreciate). This is well styled in the product images, and whatever algorithm they use in the “How to Wear It” section hits the mark by recommending a lovely Pique Johnny Collar Polo in a white and blue stripe, which I also saw in person at the J. Crew in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, seen below.

I might skip the shorts as I am neither a shorts person nor a fan of the sports jacket and shorts look (though I don’t hate it here), but the shirt is very tempting for the season.

Speaking of shirts, J. Crew is going all in on their shirt offerings for Summer 26’, with everything from Madras to rugby polos to camp collars to fishing shirts. There is voluminous variety in this category on the website currently, and much of it is actually very good: they haven’t cut down on materials, largely coming in at 100% cotton or cotton/linen blends from reputable sources. A highlight for those of us who like to wear ties even in summer is the Thomas Mason for J. Crew Cotton-Linen Blend Dress Shirt, coming in a well-proportioned point collar. While $198 is a little steep, there are very few brands these days making a shirt like this with summer tie-wearing in mind. The Johnny collar polo craze shows no signs of slowing down, as there are 6 colors on offer this season, including two striped options that stand a good chance of being added to my closet.

We discussed in our piece about the Brooks Brothers Fall/Winter 2025 collection that their offering for pants was rather weak, and still carried the skeleton in the closet of low rise, tight pants. J. Crew was, in 2025, one of the first mainstream brands to really break into the sitting-at-waist, fuller-leg pant, much to our liking. They continue to do so in Spring/Summer 2026, with highlights like the Relaxed-fit Double-Pleated Nautical Trouser in white cotton, perfect for afternoons on your theoretical sailboat or appearances in a scotch ad. They are styled as if they came straight from a r/NavyBlazer WAYWT thread, with the aforementioned blazer and johnny collar polo.

Let us not forget that when you are buying a summer weight suit, you are also getting a pair of pants to wear free of the jacket. Especially while shopping at J. Crew, as they list all of their suits as separate pieces, any of their classic or relaxed fit options are great for summer wear with a blazer, open collar linen shirt, or johnny collar polo. We particularly like the navy Relaxed-fit Suit Pant in Cotton Poplin, with a coin pocket and tasteful double pleat.

Materials and Construction

When we last spoke about the fabrics used in J. Crew’s lineup, it was about their new suiting offerings. The expanded labels and fabric mills stay on for this year, the brand even experimenting with an interesting mix of fabrics in unusual garments.

Oxford Cloth Button…. What

When entering the New Haven store I took a stroll around to see the collection for the first time, the collection that caught my eye was the bottoms. The store had on display their line of Classic-fit Oxford Creased Trousers. While the fabric choice may not have as defined a purpose in a trouser as it serves in a button down shirt it surely is visually interesting. The trouser follows the same styling and manufacturing as their other classic trouser lines such as the canvas trouser we reviewed last year. Perhaps some quality control improvements since then but most of their pant offerings follow the same style. If you fit in one you can fit into all. This is a double edged sword as it leaves much to be desired in the creativity section although the formula seems to be working for the brand, allowing them to use higher quality materials by spending less on designing new blueprints.

On The Up

Speaking of oxford cloth, I was delighted to notice the button stitching saga that occurred in the fall with their Broken-in Organic Cotton Oxford Shirt has ended. Going through a pile of shirts from the store with one of the representatives, we were hard-pressed to find any button stitching issues on the 25 or so shirts we looked at(maybe they knew I was coming). The material and total offering stays the same this season with no changes except some more baroque color and pattern options for spring. As seen in the photos some of the labels are the original labels from last season and some have the new green ones, I could not find a correlation although the green ones may signify the seasonal designs.

Opposite Day

Continuing the trend of experimentation, J. Crew was happy to show off their Ludlow Slim-fit Suit Jacket in Japanese Cotton Chino. I never thought the day of a Chino suit at J. Crew would come, but here we are, at the pinnacle of fashion… I guess. J. Crew put one color out specifically for the 44th president it seems, and the classic navy color to go along with it which seems to be selling better as the tan SKU is on sale currently.

The Fan Favorites Return

The rollneck returned in a special form for summer this season, and the problems with the last rollneck have been fixed. The Summer Rollneck Ribbed Sweater is the expansion of the rollneck selection which J. Crew seems to be singlehandedly bringing back into the mainstream. Speaking with store reps it seems that they are selling very well and will likely stay on as a permanent staple. The ribbed version of this already draping sweater is very flowing; the ribbing on the sweater lacks the structure that the original heavy cotton had, and while being stylish seems to stretch long. Although some of those problems with the dress-like fit on some of the early rollnecks have been fixed with an additional stitch being added to the bottom of the roll to prevent it from coming down beneath the hip. With the dual-material construction the summer rollneck now has a neckline stitch, although it seems quite well done and not an afterthought of the design. Like a lot of J. Crew’s other cotton sweaters, it will shrink in the first wash which will help tighten up the sweater and prevent the draping like we saw on the first-run. The original 1988 Rollneck is still available with the extra stitching now being standard across the line.

Sweaters Galore

J. Crew’s sweater collection has stayed among the most stable with materials over the past few seasons, and I am happy to say it has continued. From the in-store offerings, every single sweater on display was made with 100% natural fibers. The Heritage Cotton Cable-knit Sweater is J. Crew’s answer to the higher-end summer sweaters from the likes of Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren. The construction is the same as their basket stitch sweater from last season with sadly the same collar design. They offer the cable-knit sweater in cashmere as well at a higher price point, although the construction and fit matches those of the cashmere line and not the Heritage line that the cotton one is from, being two distinct offerings. The Cashmere Crewneck Sweater largely stays the same this season with no changes other than a few new color offerings. One confusion to sort out, The “Heritage Cotton Crewneck” like the one purchased here is not the same styling as the “Heritage Cotton Cable-knit Sweater”. In reality the cable knit offering as far as we can tell is identical in styling to the Basket-stitch Cotton Sweater from last season. The cashmere version however is identical to the cashmere crewneck of the same name. This is a bit confusing but I hope it clarified the collection here.

Spring Denim

Over the spring season J. Crew released their big denim sprawl with a large collection of jackets, shirts, and of course.. Jeans. The denim collection looks fantastic and the materials line up with some other top notch brands, although if you aren’t specifically looking for the J. Crew styling maybe stick with Levi’s. The buttons and rivets feel solid although nothing special for the increased price. The shirting offerings were a great twist on the usual designs without the button down collar. As we covered in the fall collection their new jeans formula in their “classic” line seem to be covering their bases in terms of the “one-stop shop” motto as a sales associate called them, even if the prices aren’t necessarily competitive with the cheaper denim specific brands like Levi’s or Wrangler. It was clear that the goal for J. Crew was to win over the fashion market, not the denim market.

Suiting

The expanded line of mills sourced for the suiting offerings continues to surprise at J. Crew with identical styling across their sport coat line and suits. Although throughout all of the change, blends seem to be where J. Crew put their focus this season. As we covered above the suiting has grown with a summer offering of their Suit Jacket in Baird McNutt Irish Cotton-linen Blend and the accompanying trouser. On the rack were also interesting blends between wool/cotton/linen, wool/linen, and a variety of cotton/linen options.

The Odds and Ends

A few interesting items lay around the store across various levels of interest. Firstly the staple Baird Mcnutt Irish Linen Shirt which I have been buying for multiple years now has gotten a change in branding with the labels changing to a beige from the original black and now reading “for J. Crew” beneath the label. Other than labeling the garment happily remains unchanged, other than the price which went from $98 to $118.

The Classic-fit Linen Trouser also made it onto the rack in the same styling as their old linen-cotton blend shorts. The striped, light blue, and dark blue trousers were on display at the New Haven store. There didn’t seem to be an easily identifiable Baird Mcnutt label on the trousers so I cannot be certain where they are sourcing the fabric. The styling is exactly the same as the “Classic-fit” line mentioned earlier. This is another member of the one-cut-for-all family.

The Poplin Shirt seemed like a good officialization of an already seasonal garment that has been on the rack for a while now. This has been added to the streamlining of collections that J. Crew has done in the last few years, giving proper names to garments to add a more engrained feel to the naming scheme and portray some heritage. They made the branding on the shirt seem more official this year compared to years past. The materials felt good and stitching around the shoulders and neckline was very tight. The poplin did not seem overly stiff or scratchy which can sometimes happen with lower quality fabric. After a wash you can expect it to soften substantially. It is offered in a button down collar and point collar option.

While we have not spoken about swimwear in a review before, it is worth noting that J. Crew has taken the same designs and even fabrics (kind of..) from their regular shorts and brought them to the swimwear line. J. Crew has a seersucker swim trunk on offer which is made from 67% cotton and 33% polyamide. The cotton is likely treated chemically to make it last in the water which is why we are skeptical in calling it the same seersucker that we normally speak about, but the texture is present in the garment which looks and feels quite nice. If you are looking for some swimwear that also clears the casual day dress code it may be worth a look. Of course they also have their more traditional swim trunks as well which still share the same styling.

The proudly displayed Seaboard Tote in Canvas is another neat offering from the J. Crew accessories line. The original L.L Bean tote bag is likely the inspiration for this product but at double the price it leaves the same question as their denim line. If they start selling seersucker towels and picnic blankets they may just turn into a Westmarine for Connecticut moms.

An Apology

I would also like to mention a material that I had wrongly made an assumption about in my previous review. The J. Crew Seaboard Knit, which was used widely throughout their seasonal lines in the past, I had dismissed in its entirety which was not an honest statement. While the hoodies and casualwear that they used the knit for were not very strong offerings and left a lot to be desired in terms of quality, specifically the Seaboard Soft-knit Shirt has served its purpose quite well in terms of seaboard gear. I have worn the shirt on misty days while sailing dinghies and have stayed quite warm even in cold water temperatures on Lake Champlain and been quite pleased with its performance. The sleeves roll up nicely and there is plenty of space for movement in the shoulders and torso without snagging. While I would love to see a sailing-specific wool based knit on offer, the budget conscious synthetic material with the Seaboard Knit is a good alternative when used for a heavy shirt. The Seaboard Knit line has turned into a single item line with the other garments being removed from this year’s selection. The shirt seems to be the only member of the family to have survived the slimdown.

What’s Next

From what we saw with this season’s collection, J. Crew had done a lot of the smoothing out we had mentioned in last season’s review. The end of that review concluded with a positive yet rocky note, discussing how the bones were good but certain quality control issues had to be sorted, along with the further condensing of older products that stuck around. After the turn of the new year it seemed that J. Crew started to fully commit to a new brand philosophy that revolved around simplification and material condensation. The elimination of many of their exotic materials and one-off stylings has likely allowed J. Crew to focus more on the core product than they have in the past. While one could argue it is a de-diversification from their previous lineup, we would say it is a focusing in on their core market instead of trying to appeal to all. They clearly understand their customer and have narrowed their offerings to the consistent products and lines that bring in praise. A store representative had mentioned to me in our conversation the brand has a reputation with employees for responding to quality problems and feedback which tell me that they truly care about the product they are putting out. It is not easy to look into every issue when they would not lose much by letting certain quality control measures slip like they did in the past. I have also noticed the large supersales that happen on the website are slowly getting less frequent. While they do still occur if you are shopping for certain products, the increases in price of their baseline of products and less frequent discounts on more successful items tells a story about their current customers. The brand is doing something that works and if they continue the path they are on there is no reason that some of their “premium” options can’t compete with more expensive brands. The “mall brand quality, Ralph Lauren taste” moniker may be slowly slipping from facticity, the ethos around the brand is clearly changing from the inside, we just have to wait and see how it changes from the outside.

As the summer comes every year, life gets busy. It is no secret that the plans are filling up and the quiet time that I spoke about a few months ago is sadly withering away. With the time I do have, I believe it is important to still enjoy some time to ourselves, to make sure that we feel rejuvenated and positive after the long and gelid months.

While I have been dealing with some writer’s block recently when it comes to fashion, I did have time this week to enjoy some time to myself. On Tuesday I had the day free and took the train to New Haven, Connecticut to check out the J. Crew store and speak with some employees and take some photos for the upcoming review (Stay tuned for that). When I was there I passed through town during the lively week of Yale graduation, seeing all of the families together to celebrate the end of a long academic journey for their children. It was a beautiful time of year to visit, even with the weather being sweltering outside, I took the advice of Jack and Christopher and carried around my seersucker blazer, even if it was mostly for effect. But what really caught my eye was the beauty that surrounded me. (and the admittedly interesting J. Press poster in town)

Even though I put off writing this until Friday and did not know where I wanted to go with this piece, I wanted to take some time to advocate for enjoying our cities and towns and the nature that engulfs us. In the winter we spend most of our time inside and in our “hibernation”, but during the summer we can enjoy the beauty before us in nature. Whether that means going on a stroll through a park or walking around the city and enjoying the architecture and street design like the nerd inside of me does, the time to appreciate the world around is increasingly important.

While during the winter we have the time to enjoy the smaller things in life and take the time to do it right, we sometimes feel overwhelmed in the summer. For me, enjoying the spaces that surround us is my way of escape. The next time you take the dog for a walk, or have the time to get out of your regular schedule, consider looking around and noticing the small things in the communities around us, and I can almost guarantee that you will find something you never saw before. Whether that means looking up the history behind a building you saw or the type of interesting plant you passed, you can have plenty of fun facts to pass on to your possibly uninterested friends and family.

As this is a fashion blog, I do feel required to mention something about apparel — and I will not disappoint. I recently found a pair of blue linen trousers that I have been loving. The slim cut is quite appealing and the fabric speaks for itself. I have never owned a pair of pure linen pants before and I will definitely be buying another. They are a pain to take care of but the wrinkles end up becoming part of the outfit over time. I got my pair from Spier and Mackay (something like this), which looks to actually have some things on sale currently. I have not bought a product from them before but I am pleasantly surprised. Perhaps a further review of the brand may be necessary if I can get my hands on a few more of their products.

Now that golf season is here as well, I have also been wearing some J. Crew “tech” shorts and polos out on the course which I got on a heavily discounted sale at the end of last year (they have not lowered my handicap sadly). While I am sure there are better golf shorts out there, when I happened to be in the store I got both for around 50 dollars together. They fit nicely and seem to be made well enough with no problems so far, and also feature a pocket for tees in the front which is helpful. Although I do not think they will be sponsoring any professional athletes any time soon, if you are in the market for some golf clothes in a style you are used to, their tech material seems good enough for the rest of us.

I am still struggling to find an unironic way to wear Nantucket red pants. If anyone has any ideas for me I would love to hear them….

I wanted to use this article as a message to let us bring the nature from outside closer to us. I hope we can all take some time to enjoy the fantastic late-spring weather and let our minds have time to relax and rest during the busy time of year. I wish everyone in the United States a meaningful Memorial Day weekend and a wonderful last week of May to those elsewhere.

While I struggle to find a proper valediction for this article as it was not a focused piece of writing, I hope you enjoyed it regardless.

What I’ve been up to…

Listening - Eat a Peach by The Allman Brothers Band

Reading - “How to Disagree Better” by Julia Minson

Watching - How to Make a Killing (2026)

In 1900, the New York Times ran a rather quaint story about a man who found a tarantula on a train in New York. Spurred by warnings of the tarantula’s lethality, the anonymous man threw the spider under the train, squashing it. It’s not a particularly interesting story, except for one key detail: while the man is unnamed, he is described as wearing a “seersucker coat.”

New York Times, Sept. 1900

What’s interesting here is the date. This happened nine years before Joseph Haspel allegedly invented the seersucker suit at his shop in New Orleans. Of course, a coat is not a suit, but the story of the train-car tarantula is one of many historical facts that serve to challenge the oft-told legend of the South’s most quintessential garment.

The legend, recounted on Wikipedia and a myriad of fashion blogs, goes something like this. Seersucker is a fabric of Indian origin whose English name is a corruption of the Persian/Hindi (I’ve seen both languages credited) words for milk and sugar. The fabric gained popularity with British colonizers whose tweeds and oxford cloths were ill suited to hot climates.

Eventually, the fabric made its way to the New World where it was primarily a blue-collar garment. Workers liked that it didn’t need to be ironed, was relatively cheap, and, of course, kept them cool. Railwaymen and factory workers are particularly famous for having worn the fabric, but it also ended up on nurses and soldiers at various points in history.

In 1909, Joseph Haspel of New Orleans “invented” the seersucker suit, which quickly became a Southern staple. Soon, trendy and ironic Ivy-League types up north started incorporating the fabric into their wardrobes, cementing it as a near-universal menswear staple. The final thing usually mentioned in this story is Seersucker Thursday, a day in June where US Senators are encouraged to wear seersucker suits.

But this story, while not strictly inaccurate, is at least incomplete. Lydia Blackmore, writing for the Historic New Orleans Collection, does a good job discussing the early-American history of the fabric. By combing through newspaper archives, Blackmore was able to pinpoint some of the fabric’s earliest mentions. While the broad strokes of the typical seersucker origin story are more or less true, seersucker’s rise from railyard to Congress is actually more striking than it appears.

How Times Change

As Blackmore notes, the fabric was initially imported to the US in the 18th century as much for curtains and bedding as for clothing. However, some of the earliest mentions of seersucker as clothing come not from textile advertisements or shipping manifests, but rather from more grisly affairs. In 1821, for example, seersucker and madras were listed as fabrics worn by a runaway slave named Mary-Jeanne.

Seersucker suits, as opposed to workwear, started appearing in advertisements in the late 19th century—decades before Haspel allegedly invented the garment. Yet, despite his exaggerated role in the garment’s invention, Joseph Haspel still serves as a useful demarcation point for seersucker enthusiasts.

The Washington Post, 1935

Looking again at newspaper archives, it’s possible to figure out the exact date when seersucker transitioned from blue collar to white collar: 1935. This is the year Joseph Haspel was indicted on eight counts of tax evasion. The Washington Post article on the indictment describes Haspel as a “manufacturer of summer clothing,” but, unlike the tarantula story, the article makes no mention of his arraignment attire. Still, this is likely the earliest-recorded example of seersucker being associated with white-collar, rather than blue-collar, crime. From there, it’s a straightforward path to the country club, the Ivy League, and the Senate.

How seersucker found its way from the backs of enslaved African Americans to the backs of presidents and senators is not itself a unique story (see, denim). The intrigue comes instead from how common of a story this is in American fashion. A fabric emerging from coal mines and shipyards and winding up in high-rise offices embodies the rags-to-riches narrative that is so central to the American identity.

But also central to the American identity is the impulse to assign credit for large social phenomena to a singular person. Joseph Haspel deserves some credit for the seersucker suit’s popularity, but it’s likely actors such as Gregory Peck and Andy Griffith that played at least an equal role in the garment’s mainstream appeal. But everybody loves a visionary, especially in the fashion world.

Regardless, what makes seersucker’s rise special is another strange trend in fashion. As the fabric transitioned from workaday garb to highfalutin attire, it also lost something of its essence. Any cooling benefit one is likely to receive from the fabric is minimal once the material is fashioned into a coat — especially if that coat is worn over a regular cotton shirt. But, perhaps, this is kind of the point. Just as lawns once signaled wealth by demonstrating their owners had no need for subsistence farming, wearing a coat made out of a cooling fabric sends a similar message.

What’s undeniable is seersucker’s aesthetic appeal. Those blue and white stripes are iconic, and, even without their storied history, would have likely been enough to keep generation after generation cool in their coats.

Before that conversation even happened, I had set out to find a seersucker suit in early 2025, after rewatching To Kill a Mockingbird after many years. Of course I had not noticed Gregory Peck’s immaculate seersucker three piece during my initial watch in high school, as I was forced to watch it and cared more about what was happening on the SNKRS app back then. On my second watch, though, I could not stop thinking about that suit for days afterward. A close friend of mine and my most trusted source for vintage suits, Chadbourne, (@alltimedarling on Instagram, check him out) owned a similar suit that I had seen him wear a lot the previous summer, and I couldn’t shake how great it looked, or how unique a suit like that has become in daily pedestrian traffic.

So I set out to find the perfect one, and spent the next 8 months in utter failure. Every one I located on eBay/Poshmark/Facebook Marketplace/etc. was just not the one. Every day that passed by in that ridiculously hot summer was an opportunity to wear this suit I didn’t have yet. It wasn’t until September when the lows were in the 50s that my eBay saved search finally bore fruit: featured below, a 1970s seersucker two piece sold by Caplan’s Menswear in Alexandria, Louisiana.

There is a small bit of straying from the most classic details in this suit, emblematic of its time no doubt. What attracted me to this listing was not just that I knew it was the silhouette I was looking for, but also that it had some small bits of panache. Like the blue buttons rather than white and its non-traditional fabric pattern that is only discernible up close. I am just getting to break this out now, as I mentioned it was purchased in September, thus it was not wearable until a few days ago.

A great thing not just about seersucker but about virtually all summer suits is that the pants and jackets are wearable as separates. The more relaxed nature of summer dressing allows for a seersucker jacket with navy linen pants, or seersucker pants with a linen shirt (three buttons undone and cocktail in hand, of course).

Whenever I purchase any vintage clothing, I like to find out what I can about the maker, fabric, and/or retailer it came from. The midcentury especially had so many great retailers all over the country that have great histories emblematic of the American culture that ran through not just metropolitan areas, but all the small stops between the coasts as well. Caplan’s, the retailer of this suit, was a particularly great story. From Caplan’s “About Us” section:

“Since our first store opened in 1891, our goal has been to serve the public, as nearly as we can, to its complete satisfaction. Then, as now, we proclaimed, “Not the Largest, Not the Smallest, But the BEST PLACE in town To Trade.” By valuing our customers, associates, community, products, and services for over a century, Caplan’s has built a strong foundation for our future.”

Caplan’s was the place for men’s clothing, accessories, and lifestyle products in middle Louisiana from 1891 until the brand went fully into uniform and commercial clothing in 2015. The brand produced “blue gear” i.e. police uniforms and workwear as early as the 1920s (they are the oldest customer in the Dickies (then Williamson Dickies) commercial sales logs from 1922) in tandem with men’s and boy’s clothing. The brand has been passed down through four generations in that time, and while retail products are no longer available, to this day every single uniform worn by a city employee in Alexandria, Louisiana is made and sold by Caplan’s.

I encourage you to agree with my mother and embrace the elegance of something like a seersucker suit. It can be approached in so many ways, and the two pieces of the suit are so versatile throughout the spring and summer seasons. I always enjoy being the person that has something special to wear for a specific occasion, whether it be a summer wedding, derby party, or garden party in Nantucket (if you’re hosting one soon, invite me please). The fabric doesn’t just stop at tailoring, though. Seersucker shorts or shirts are excellent additions to relaxed summer outfits for running about town or sitting on the sidewalk enjoying an aperitif. No matter how you might enjoy yours, on behalf of all of us at TNBC, happy seersucker summer.

While popular culture reserves the majority of fine jewelry for women, modern men are often seen with pendant chains, roped or linked bracelets, oversized rings, or earrings. While we don’t take issue with these kinds of jewelry when worn well, they’re a far departure from what was present in the past. The mass market jewelry for men in the 1930s through 1960s was expressive but understated, refined but restrained. It wasn’t really even thought of as jewelry, as that was a more feminine term. It was part of a professional man’s daily look, not for any occasion but the occasion of daily life. While styles of course changed throughout the years, the base sentiment remained the same.

Most men, no matter the decade, often opted for gold as a base metal as it was more harmonious with an array of suit colors. Silver and white gold were reserved for black tie, and most men would have one set in that metal. Many cufflinks were purchased as a part of a set (seen above) which would have included a tie bar in a matching metal and with a matching stone, if applicable. The stud pierced the tie and fastened like a lapel pin, carrying a chain along that fastened through a shirt buttonhole.

Because these pieces were often sold as sets, it always felt coordinated and harmonious. This coordination is fundamentally missing from what we see today; when men wear these vintage-style items today they are often lacking the harmony they would have been in past times. Cufflinks are always matched, but if a tie bar or pin is added, it is often bought separately and doesn’t match the cufflinks. This is the easiest way to elevate the look of jewelry when worn formally. Due to these pieces being mostly worn with tuxedos, it is imperative that shirt studs should match as well (if worn). For us, a tuxedo is not complete without shirt studs. You can find vintage full sets that include studs, cufflinks, and even a tie bar or stud on secondhand platforms and in vintage stores. We recommend checking vintage or antique stores, as these pieces are often neglected and priced lower as the demand is quite low. Some of us at TNBC have found amazing vintage examples for pennies on the dollar of what they’re worth in weight of metal alone!

Everything we’ve spoken of thus far is still seen occasionally in modern times, but an underappreciated piece that was a daily carry in the early 20th century was pocket watches. Now regarded as quite costume-y, pocket watches were very common in the 1910s-1950s, before central air conditioning became commonplace and men stopped wearing as many three-piece suits. The chain of a pocket watch seen hanging out of a waistcoat was revived in popular culture recently becoming an identifiable part of Peaky Blinders while the show was airing in the late 2010s. As wristwatches became more popular in the postwar period of the 40s and 50s, many houses that previously made pocket watches converted over to keep up with their clients. We at TNBC believe a classically styled, black strap wristwatch is one of, if not the most, essential accessory a man can have

What you will see on most men today is a wedding ring. Rings are ancestrally important in nearly all cultures, as signifiers of marital or social status, guild affiliation, or familial lineage. Knowing what metal will fit best with your skin tone is an important part of choosing a wedding band, as you’ll be wearing it forever (hopefully). That determination should apply to the metals of your watches and things like cufflinks as well. Lighter, paler complexions are best complemented by white metals, while darker, richer tones are best complemented by yellow or rose gold. Not all rules are meant to be followed to completeness however. Find what works best for you and your lifestyle, and you will never wear any jewelry that doesn’t make sense.

Signet rings are a personal favorite of mine, classically styled in gold with a monogram. There are thousands of images including prominent families like the English Royal Family wearing signet rings that bear their family crest. Most of us, and definitely most Americans, do not have anything like a family crest; a monogram is the next best option, something uniquely yours that still carries your family name. There are fewer and fewer makers in the world that can create a true signet ring for you, one like the below that should be worn on the pinky of your non-dominant hand, along with a wristwatch and wedding band. That can make your non-dominant hand feel a little heavy, especially with nothing on the opposite hand - but the reason it is worn on that hand in the first place is in case you should need to do any physical task using your dominant hand, so that your jewelry is protected.

Wearing jewelry in 2026 is a tough approach. If you’re an enthusiast of classic style like we are, you want to get the foundations right so you stay true to your forefathers. But why should you? The new generation should be free to carve out its own rules and abide by its own aesthetics. What good does appreciation for the past do? (Hint: a lot). The key word is “appreciation” rather than imitation. Knowing the rules of the past can help you break them in tasteful ways today. Maybe your cufflinks have huge expressive stones that match the hues of your tie. Maybe your watch has a mixed metal bracelet (not my favorite but to each their own) and your cufflinks mismatch your tie bar intentionally. As said before, if it is worn authentically, it cannot be wrong. You will notice nearly immediately if this jewelry is worn because the occasion required it or if it is with an appreciation for the pieces themselves.

Every week I give myself a day to relax and enjoy a more casual shoe and outfit, a liberty (or “Libahty” as our 35th President would say) afforded to me by recent fashion waves shifting away from formality. While at first these days were my least favorite in terms of my sartorial interest, it was not long after that my feet thanked me.

I found my feet at the end of the day feeling more rejuvenated and this allowed me to continue wearing my other shoes without discomfort or pain. I wondered: could sneakers actually become a staple of my wardrobe?

This realization has brought me to crossroads about how I can mix my comfort with my style. As with any new piece of clothing there is always a learning phase, some trying on, and some discovering what looks right.

Now when speaking to the TNBC audience, I am aware of the stigma against sneakers but I must preface this by saying that the sneakers I own are not Nike or Adidas running shoes. I was a big proponent of Allbirds when they started growing in the mid 2010’s and I continue to keep a pair of their shoes around for casual days, even as my style has changed.

The shoes are simple and their Wool Runners are incredibly comfortable for me to wear for days on end (even if I don’t). When on vacation these shoes often guide me through cobblestone streets and European promenades as my large step count and love for public transportation leads me on some great adventures.

The sleek look of the Allbirds shoes with a simple color pattern and weather-resistant coating make it easy to pair with existing outfits. Although too casual for trousers, they look fitting with nice denim or chinos. The wool is comfortable and provides good resistance to smell and sweat. On cold and windy days the material does a good enough job staving off the thermal indignity of a Vermont winter while preventing the ever-uncomfortable pins and needles.

The quality of Allbirds does vary and was often cited as the downfall of the company; some of my pairs have lasted quite a while if worn only occasionally and taken care of. A simple wipe down with water and the occasional airing out has left my pair looking brand new for over 2 years. I would like to add that even if they do get soaked or muddy, they are easy to clean and can even be put in the washing machine.

While I would not run in the shoes, they do feel more ‘active’ than your regular dress shoes and don’t make me flinch when walking through a small puddle or unpaved surface. The tread also prevents me from discountenancing myself on the secret ice that hides on the walkways and slippery steps of Vermont from November to April.

I do not believe that sneakers are here to replace any part of our wardrobe but an argument can be made for their usefulness as a supplement. The sneaker has been dismissed as a modern detriment to men’s fashion although I see it in a different light.

The way I wear my clogs in the kitchen is the same way I view my sneakers in everyday life. They can be used to make us more comfortable when we need to be standing or walking for long periods of time. While it may not be every day, it comes about on some occasions that we need some extra support at the expense of our looks. That break can look different for everyone, but there is still a time and place for the shoe that cannot be defenestrated.

To answer my question posed earlier, I must say that the answer is, yes. Sneakers can become a small part of my wardrobe and, just maybe, part of yours as well. Because whether we like to admit it or not, we all still deserve a day off.

-Theo

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We are entering the season where you are freezing in the morning and sweating in the afternoon, all while wearing the same clothes. Nobody really knows what to wear, and in this confusion you are not alone.

The heroes of this season are those that can be flexible, wick moisture when needed, and hold heat in when necessary. We spoke last year in the transition season of merino and cotton sweaters, and they will make a reappearance in this inverse version.

Flexible layers like a vest are invaluable in this season for their ability not just to keep your body warm in the morning, but to dress up a simple shirt in the afternoon. This one from Lauren Ralph Lauren (admittedly a synthetic microsuede) serves exactly that purpose. It features equestrian details, an activity which resurfaces in the sunlight of March. A staple of mine this season, my fiancé thrifted this for $1 with me in mind.

There is nothing more valuable in most times of year than a good sweater. The in-between seasons are when they can serve their purpose best, whether made of cotton or wool. This sweater from Polo Country is 100% cotton in a looser knit than what you might find at PRL today, which helps air flow and keeps you cool. This can be flexibly layered over an OCBD or nothing at all; if you want to look cool you can throw it over your shoulders as well, should the climate dictate. The cotton fabric also makes this sweater a little easier to care for than something like a linen blend or wool.

Something that comes to mind the most in winter, but can be flexed into the spring if not too heavy, is a pair of grey flannel trousers. Wool embodies the characteristics we spoke of in the intro: it can wick moisture when needed to keep sweat off, and can also trap heat in when the temperatures dip. While brushed flannel focuses more on keeping heat in, a midweight pair like this one, that is part of a vintage suit I own is supremely wearable well into April. Spring and summer collections often feature lighter colors and breezier fabrics, leaving a gap for the in between months - a heavier staple like these trousers can not only help keep your color palette grounded, but provide a warmer shell for those chilly mornings.

Theo:

Something I have learned over the past year is that denim is most definitely in style. While denim never went out of fashion per se, recent trends have made it hard to dismiss.

This is not the ‘skinny jean’ that was in fashion during the 2000’s, this is the real deal. High-quality and full cut denim is having a moment, and I have jumped on the train.

While I always had a pair of jeans lying around I never invested in a proper pair of high-quality denim jeans. That was until I recently purchased a pair of Levi’s 501 Shrink-to-Fit jeans in the classic blue, and a more modern black.

With spring coming it may be time to sport some more casual outfits and I have been really enjoying the versatility of denim as a spring replacement for the corduroy trousers.

On the few warmer days we have had so far, the texture of denim has been a drop-in for my existing favorite outfits, when the cold crept up it proved no match for the tight knit of the cotton.

After the jeans arrived at my door from Levi’s I was left with a pair two sizes too long and one waist size too big, although that was by intention. The ‘Shrink-to-Fit’ version allows you to shrink the denim yourself which helps it to mold to your body as you wear it.

Already I have noticed the knee creases change shape, and the thigh has become more comfortable when I sit. I imagine with more yardwork and weekend errands it will be perfectly tailored in due time. Perhaps lending a hand in repainting a friend’s sailboat this spring will help break them in (A project which I am eager to help with).

The jeans are not the only piece of denim I am looking forward to this transition season. A Brooks Brothers Chambray shirt is one of my favorite pieces to wear come springtime. The light fabric is what helped build the Empire State Building and power hardworking Americans into the new-age, but I cannot say my shirt goes through the same wringer.

Worn under a jacket or sweater it provides enough warmth, but if the weather turns, it will not leave you sweating. The breezy fabric allows air to flow and the shirt develops a nice wear pattern just like jeans. With the sleeves rolled up you can feel good knowing the summer weather is just a short time away.

The last piece I am excited to wear is my linen-blend Polo Ralph Lauren crewneck sweater. In a nicely muted green color it is light enough to be worn throughout the year although provides a nice layer under a jacket for the colder mornings.

The weave has loosened over the years, making it a soft and plush wear. Although over the years the neckline has gotten lower, fitting more like a shirt now than a sweater. This makes layering underneath difficult, but just like our clothing choices this time of year, it is just a sacrifice that has to be made.

What we’ve been up to...

Listening -

Ronnie Milsap, Labi Siffre

Allman Brothers Band

Reading -

Dune, by Frank Herbert

Airborne: A Sentimental Journey, by William Frank Buckley

(re)watching -

Game of Thrones

Peaky Blinders: The Immortal Man

Did you know, for instance, that there is a yearly Oscars-esque award ceremony called the Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve wherein watchmakers win awards in various categories and take home trophies? If you’re a normal person, you did not know this, but if you are a watch enthusiast, you know not only that such a ceremony exists but also who won each category, including the coveted Aiguille D’or Grand Prix — the GPHG’s version of Best Picture.

In 2023, the Aiguille D’or winner was this watch:

This $1.6 million timepiece is called the Ultra-Complication Universelle RD4. It’s made of pink gold and, with all those subdials, hands, pushers, scales, bells (literally), and whistles (figuratively), appears cluttered yet sophisticated, like the inside of a cockpit. Most of us have no idea what any of the things do but it fills us with inarticulate wonder. “Wow,” one might say, “I have no idea what any of this does but look at it!”

The truth is that the RD4 is impressive. It can do just about everything a mechanical watch can possibly do. It can tell you the time (obviously), the full date (including leap years) until 2100, record elapsed time, read the hours, minutes, and seconds and “repeat” them using a hammer that strikes the case like a gong, chime every hour, and tell you the phase of the Moon. And all this in something that you could, at least in theory, wear on your wrist.

But in order for the RD4 to be interesting at all, you have to do something that watch enthusiasts do regularly but that makes little sense to outsiders: you have to ignore the simple fact that mechanical timekeeping is, unequivocally, unnecessary. The RD4, “ultra complicated” as it is, can’t do 1/1000th of what any smart watch can. In fact, you don’t even have to spend smart watch money to get a watch that is, in some ways, better than the RD4. Walk into any department store with $100 and you can probably find a battery-powered watch that will keep better time than the $1.6 million RD4.

Once you think about this inherent redundancy, the whole idea of having an “Oscars of Watchmaking” feels a bit like having an “Oscars of telegraph-making.” Why are people still making these things? Why are people still buying them? Why are they giving out awards for them?

And I’m not just talking about small-batch, contest-winning mega watches like the RD4. The entire mechanical watch industry, from the $100 Seiko to the $50,000 Patek Philippe, is redundant and has been since the 1980s. It should be dead.

And yet the mechanical watch is anything but dead. Brands like Rolex, A. Lange & Söhne, and Grönefeld command waitlists so long you may as well put your grandchildren’s names down. But it’s not just the market that is flourishing. There exists now entire internet spaces dedicated to watches: Reddit’s r/watches has 2 million subscribers, YouTube has various channels consisting of disembodied hands holding watches under a macro lens that collect views in the millions, and cults of personality have arisen around watch experts like Tim Mosso and Federico Iossa.

So what gives? Is it just rampant, unfettered consumerism, avarice, and pretension that drives these markets? No. At least that isn’t the whole story.

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A Crisis In Quartz

A lot of industries have their own A.D. & B.C., that point when some innovation or other caused a fundamental change to a product or service. There are loads of easy examples of innovations revolutionizing  or erasing  whole industries: think of what streaming did to video rentals, what ride sharing did to taxis, what Amazon did to shopping, what cassettes did to vinyl records, what CDs did to cassettes, and what MP3s did to CDs.

Watchmaking, too, had its own paradigm shift in the 70s and 80s — one that should have killed the mechanical watch for good but didn’t.

That innovation was quartz, and it started when Seiko, a Japanese company, unveiled the Astron. The Astron was special because it told time in a different way than every other watch up to that point. Instead of harnessing the potential energy of a wound-up spring to keep track of time  as it had been done for centuries , the Astron instead utilized the power of a small battery to electrify a quartz crystal.

Because quartz oscillates at a predictable and stable rate when a current passes through it, measuring a second is a matter of counting 32,768 vibrations. This, it turns out, is significantly more accurate than purely mechanical timekeeping, which must wage constant battle against the forces of friction, ambient temperature, and material fatigue.

Quartz watches like the Astron represented the biggest leap in hundreds of years in timekeeping accuracy. Before the Astron, watches would be rated on how many seconds per day they lost; after the Astron, watches came to be measured in seconds per month, or even year.

These days, the industry timeline is split into two: Pre Quartz and Post Quartz. But it’s not just accuracy that drove this division. The real reason the Quartz Revolution (or the Quartz Crisis)  is the modern delineation point in watchmaking has less to do with accuracy and more to do with manufacturing. Now, the Astron was initially not inexpensive, but it was a key step in bringing watch manufacturing into the modern age.

For centuries, Switzerland built its reputation as a watchmaking powerhouse around a vision of the capital-C Craftsman. Quartz technology, however, was watchmaking re-imagined, not in the image of generational craftsmen toiling in smoky snowed-in Swiss cottages, but in automated assembly in futuristic factories. As Japan ,  with companies like Citizen, Casio, and Seiko  embraced the cutting edge of modern streamlined manufacturing, prices on these highly vertically integrated timepieces inevitably fell. This left the Old Guard Swiss manufacturers trying to sell a worse product at a higher price — a feat of economic acrobatics companies like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin (known as the Holy Trinity of watchmaking) actually managed to pull off. Eventually, that is.

The thing about the watches the Holy Trinity were trying to sell is that they were only worse products if you consider them practically, that is, in their ability to tell time. Of course this seems completely natural: timekeeping is exactly how most people would in fact judge a wristwatch. But this is not at all how watch enthusiasts, who are not regular people, think. This means that, instead of relying solely on mechanical precision to sell watches, watchmakers started finding other selling points in their watches.

Of course, all watches must tell time (unless it’s one of these apparently). Once when discussing the minimal story in his action-focused Doom video game franchise, video game developer John Carmack said, “Story in a game is like a story in a porn movie. It’s expected to be there, but it’s not that important.” The same is true with watches and time. You can’t really sell a watch that doesn’t tell time, but somehow the time is actually secondary ,  or perhaps tertiary to what watch lovers are actually seeking.

What watch enthusiasts were seeking  ( or what marketing departments and PR firms convinced them they were seeking ) could not be delivered through the Quartz Revolution. What quartz had that made it mass marketable  was mass producibility, accuracy, and affordability ; it  also highlighted what was so alluring about old-fashioned wristwatches, namely their longevity, artistry, and narratives they told. That is to say that if a watch promises to become an heirloom, or is painstakingly handcrafted, or is an historically interesting model  (or, hopefully, all three )  watch companies have figured out it doesn’t matter if a given watch is the most practical or accurate way of telling the time.

The Holy Trinity, and companies like them, survived, and currently thrive, by acknowledging that their products appeal not to their customers’ sense of practicality, but to their senses of artisanship, of tradition, and of manufacture.

Luxury watchmakers, at least the great ones, have a way of making this old-fashioned artisanship tangible and visible, and their customers are willing to fork over serious cash to experience it. Yet, I don’t think it’s fair to write the watch enthusiast world off as simple rampant, soulless, object worship. Even if that is some of the story, there is the impossible-to-ignore fact that some mechanical timepieces are manifestations of thousands of hours of training, painstaking assembly, and months of testing.

The Watch as Kinetic Art

So here’s what the mechanical watchmakers of old were up against. Not only did quartz technology offer a more accurate way of telling time, it did so at a much lower cost. What the manufacturers did was simple: they stopped selling timepieces and started selling art.

Thinking about luxury watches as art is the best way to understand both the market and the subculture that has evolved around the market, and the best way to understand how a watch can be art is to, well, look at one.

Most people think of a watch as being its dial. That is, they ignore what makes the dial function. All it usually takes to capture a layman’s attention is to turn a high-end watch around and show them, through the clear caseback, the inner workings of a proper mechanical wristwatch.

When you peer into the inside of a spring-powered watch, and see all the ticking and spinning and clicking, something that should have been incredibly obvious becomes instantly clear: these are little machines. Generally, you can see the balance ticking away, oscillating back and forth so fast it looks like it’s spinning. You can see the pallet fork gracefully deal with being smashed into by the balance. You can see the subtle forces of the escapement being reduced by gear trains to, through engineering genius, spin accurate second, minute, and hour hands — all powered by a tense piece of metal. This feeling of awe is heightened the older a watch is: imagine an endlessly running, high-tolerance tool like a watch ticking on and on for decades.

In these ways, each watch is more like a little kinetic sculpture than a practical time-telling tool. And this is where the magic lies: the magic not of electrons and capacitors, but of intricate pieces of metal interacting with one another flawlessly and precisely. Yes, a watch is anachronistic, but enthusiasts will tell you that in this virtual, digital, disposable world, that’s not bad — it’s actually the whole point.

Watches are about the limits of what humans can do in a workshop, not the limits of micro-transistors in laboratories.

Constraining Innovation

So what we have today is a collection of companies not selling simple timepieces, but small works of mechanical art that hark to a bygone era. But watch companies must compete and, somehow, they must innovate. Some watchmakers compete in the realm of finishing. In the watch world, finishing includes things like beveling levers on the inside of the watch, applying engine turning to bridges, or black polishing various facets on the front and back of a watch.

But other companies, like Richard Mille, De Bethune, and Ulysse Nardin, have made a name for themselves through consistently innovating in the technological aspects of their watches. But their innovations are all inherently constrained because, in the battle to sell that aforementioned mechanical magic, watchmakers learned the hard way that quartz is no ally. So, if you want to be considered “haute” in the horology world, you are allowed to pursue better and better timekeeping methods so long as you never put a battery in your watch.

This means, essentially, that watchmakers are solving problems that don’t exist, or they exist in the same way problems like scan lines on CRT televisions exist — they are there but they bother precisely zero people. De Bethune, for instance, holds a dozen or so patents on various watch movement components, each designed to ever incrementally increase accuracy and resilience.

And, make no mistake, from an engineering standpoint the machines made over at De Bethune are interesting and impressive, but no amount of mechanical accuracy improvement is ever going to change the fact that you can buy a watch (for a couple hundred dollars mind you) that gets its time by syncing with an atomic clock accurate to +/- one second every 300 million years. In the arena of timekeeping, mechanical watches aren’t even in the running.

To use an analogy, imagine if RCA or some other oldish electronics company, opened up a boutique on a fancy high street that sold high-end, hand-made, VCRs. Here, salesmen in European-cut suits and loafers might tell you about titanium capstans, silicone pinch rollers, and anti-magnetic drums. You might hear about how recent innovations in direct current have allowed the tapes to rewind at breakneck speeds, or how palladium is now being used in eraser heads to extend the life of the tape, or how recent advancements in cartridge production have allowed for eight-head VHS playback, greatly increasing quality while reducing wear and tear. Imagine these VCRs, which output a worse and lower definition image than something from Fisher-Price, selling for tens,  or even hundreds , of thousands of dollars.

Put this way, the whole idea sounds insane, but, it’s basically the business model behind some of watchmaking’s biggest brands: using modern technology to improve upon, what is essentially, ancient technology.

Perhaps no brand illustrates the modern, oxymoronic ethos behind today’s watch industry than Richard Mille. In 2019 Odell Beckham Jr., a wide receiver playing for the Cleveland Browns, made headlines because he wore a very expensive watch during a game against the Tennessee Titans.

This act made headlines, but most outlets discussed only the watch’s price tag (about $190,000 new at the time) rather than the incredible feat of engineering his Richard Mille RM 11–03 actually is. As hinted at earlier, a mechanical watch is a rather finicky item. What makes them work well — namely, micro precision — also makes them quite delicate and sensitive. Advances have been made in watch design in recent years — notably by Richard Mille and Rolex — to make them more durable, but, still, counting a second using only springs and gears is rather precise work which is easily interrupted by shock. Beckham, with almost alarming nonchalance, played a full-contact sport wearing his mechanical timepiece.

The marketing team over at RM was likely floored by Beckham’s stunt because Beckham at the time was not an ambassador or sponsee of the brand. He was just a customer. But as flabbergasted as the RM marketing team probably felt that day, it’s safe to say the engineers at RM were ecstatic. A full game of American football is exactly the kind of thing Richard Mille designs their watches to do: it’s what the company wants to be known for.

A hidden layer to the Odell Beckham story, though, takes us back again to a hallmark of the watch industry: constrained innovation. Beckham’s RM 11–03 carries a six-figure price tag. Sure it’s made out of space-age lightweight materials like silicon and carbon fiber and is shock resistant, but if Odell, for whatever reason, really needed to tell the time on the football field, he could have purchased a Casio G-Shock, a watch designed and constructed entirely around the idea of shock resistance and durability, for around $75. Plus, the Casio tells better time. But that’s not what Odell and enthusiasts like him want. They want a mechanical watch that can do these things.

There was of course a time where research and innovation in mechanical watchmaking actually made sense. There is perhaps no single innovator in watchmaking more central than Abraham Louis Breguet. Breguet’s accomplishments are Newtonian in scope. If there is a component in a watch he didn’t invent, he most certainly improved upon it in some way. The most exciting of these inventions was designed in the early 19th century by Breguet to combat a problem specific to pocket watches. A pocket watch, by its nature, spends a lot of time in the same orientation relative to gravity as it sits in a pocket. This caused uneven wear on the watch’s escapement. Breguet fixed this by inventing a device he called a tourbillon. This ingenious device rotates the entire escapement so as to wear it evenly.

The tourbillon is redundant in a wristwatch, whose position relative to gravity is ever-changing, but redundancy has of course not stopped high-end brands from including tourbillions in their finest watches. The tourbillon these days is a modern artistic and engineering extravagance that is maybe a good symbol for the entire luxury watch space. Through a little window on the dial you can see an impossibly little, awe-inspiring machine— that was painstakingly planned, designed, crafted, and decorated spin around doing absolutely nothing useful at all.

But it isn’t just mechanical complexity that gets people to wait on 10-year-long waiting lists. The other draw is, of course, narrative.

The Watch as a Narrative Vehicle

The art of watches, to a lot of people, extends beyond their mechanisms and into the realm of narrative.

In 1970, Apollo 13 was in trouble and it needed to get home with limited resources. During the scramble to get the spacecraft habitable for an emergency return journey to Earth, Apollo 13 had veered off course. Due to electrical problems, the digital timers on the ship were unusable. So, NASA astronaut Jack Swigert turned to his wrist. He flawlessly timed a fourteen-second burn using his Omega Speedmaster.

Four years earlier, Neil Armstrong was the first human to step foot on the moon. He had a Speedmaster on his wrist.

Four years before that, Wally Shirra orbited the Earth as part of the Sigma 7 mission. You know which watch he had on his wrist.

NASA still issues the Speedmaster to astronauts, and you can still purchase one from Omega. Now, the watch itself is beautiful and well-crafted, but aesthetics alone do not sell Speedmasters. What does sell these watches is the stories and history attached to them. If you’ve got the money you can wear a watch that is—to anybody except an expert—identical to the first watch worn on the Moon. Make no mistake, Omega is absolutely aware of this. This is why they sell countless variants of the Speedmaster, the most notable of which comes with a Velcro strap long enough to fit around the cuff of a spacesuit. Seriously.

The Speedmaster story isn’t unique, though. Where Omega sells space, Rolex sells ocean. In 1927, Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel with a Rolex around her neck. This watch became the first to cross the channel, submerged, and come out in France ticking. Rolex then kept improving on the design of their watches, eventually releasing the first watch waterproof to 100 meters. The Submariner, as it was called, became the dive watch standard. James Bond wore one, as did just about any professional diver whose name you know. Today, Rolex actually sells a watch that is water resistant to a depth actually deeper than the ocean gets on Earth.

But Rolex and Omega aren’t the only companies selling history. JLC sells a watch that was invented, allegedly, to be worn during polo matches; Vulcain sells a watch with an alarm that was worn by several presidents; Cartier will sell you the first purpose-designed pilot’s watch (made initially for a dirigible); Tag Heuer still offers the watch Steve McQueen wore in Le Mans; Hamilton sells the watch Will Smith wore in Men in Black; and on and on and on.

From a marketing perspective, these narratives are what the modern luxury watch business thrives on. If watch companies can’t sell true innovation, they can, at least, sell you their history of innovation. And if they can’t do that, they can at least sell you their history of being wrist decorations for famous people.

Buy It For Lives

There’s no denying that any non-essential good that costs hundred or thousands of dollars is inherently a status symbol. But it would also be disingenuous to think of the entire luxury watch space as repulsive materialism any more than we think of art itself as materialistic.

Maybe the last thing to consider when debating the value proposition of purchasing a device to tell time that costs 5 times what the best iPhone costs is longevity. In an era where we accept planned obsolescence as fact, where it’s cheaper to buy a new refrigerator than to fix your old one, where a phone battery lasts only for the two years it takes to pay it off. There is something special about owning a device that can be endlessly maintained.

This idea of endless maintainability is actually the cornerstone of many definitions of “luxury” in the watch world: and it’s a good one. Think about all the things you own. How many of them will still be useful in 10 years? 30 years? 100 years? Your books will yellow and brittle, your television will die, your car will weather, your couch will moulder, even your coffin will melt away. Your watch however, will keep on ticking.

That’s gotta be worth something.

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C.R. Burgess is a writer and stay-at-home dad based in northern Scotland. When he isn’t chasing around an unruly 2.5 year-old toddler, he’s over-contemplating parenting on Substack.

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Brooks brought one of the shirts back to America to be replicated, and the American legend of the OCBD begins. This strikes us at TNBC as the most credible version, so we will stick with it for the purposes of this article. Brooks, to this day, calls certain button downs “The Original Polo Shirt.”

The origin of the name of the fabric also has a few theories, however the generally accepted one is that the name originates from textile mills in 19th century Scotland. Rumor has it that a mill introduced four fabrics named after the four prestigious universities of the time: Yale, Harvard, Cambridge, and Oxford.

While the three others have faded into history, the oxford cloth alone survived the test of time. The durability of the oxford cloth was a major selling point for it in its early days, with a revolutionary weave that created a breathable fabric that was still hardy enough to be worn during physical activities like polo.

Materials and Fabrics

Standard Oxford Cloth

All oxford cloths are a distinct basketweave pattern, which lends a heathered look to the fabric and can often lead to seeing small white flecks in colored garments. This strengthens the material and maximizes airflow to help wick moisture away from the body.

Pinpoint Oxford Cloth

Utilizing a tighter weave and a finer fabric, pinpoint oxford serves as the dressier cousin of the standard, rougher oxford cloth. When shopping online, this can easily be confused with cotton poplin, especially in the button-down collar format. While not as durable, the finer fabric helps maintain an air of sophistication while easily substituting for a classic, stiffer dress shirt.

Styles

There are only a couple styles with an oxford shirt that differentiate between the season they might be best worn in, although no strict guide exists. In the summer tighter fitting shirts can feel suffocating so it is best to find a shirt that lends some room to breathe. Many of the lighter weight fabrics will naturally have more space, especially the shirts tailored for summerwear. We see this with the Ralph Lauren shirts that we reviewed in our very first eBay Chronicles #001. You will definitely see them again in our outfit-photo frames come the summer months.

For the most versatile and timeless look, looking somewhere between fitted and billowing is the best option. The breathability of Oxford fabric allows the shirt to be worn for four seasons, especially in pinpoint; a shirt cut slightly away from the body allows for airflow in the summer.

We always advise that a looser fitting shirt is better than a fitted one, as extra fabric can always be concealed under a sweater, blazer, or coat. The roughness of the OCBD’s basket weave also ensures that the shirt will not slip out from underneath your waistband should it be worn on its own in the summer. This creates a cleaner and more streamlined look. The slickness of poplin dress shirts often have the opposite effect, and can look messy and unkempt.

While all OCBDs have the button down collar, hence the name, not all collars are created equal. A term heard and written on many menswear blogs is “collar roll.” The roll of the collar is the signature look of the OCBD, and is a great measure of quality in a shirt.

A larger, more substantial roll is generally thought to be of higher quality and of greater esteem for the wearer. It shows others that you know a thing or two about a good shirt when you see it. There is a certain panache that comes with having a large collar that rolls elegantly in a way only achieved through consistent wear. This is a sign of good taste and the discernment to know that a good shirt should be worn and given a good life.

Buyers Guide: Fit, Quality, and the Wardrobe

Fit

OCBD fits and silhouettes have varied wildly throughout the decades, but the enduring style of the shirt ensures that it has never been out of fashion. British polo players were the first to adopt the late 19th century fit, which would have likely been a large, flowy silhouette before being covered with tight waistcoats. This fit largely remained the same until the 1960s, when nearly all men’s clothing slimmed up to remain visually cohesive. Today, you can find more faithful recreations in relaxed fits from specialty brands, as well as modern slim cuts from the likes of J. Crew.

Quality

The easiest to spot hallmarks of quality with not just OCBDs, but virtually all dress shirts: stitches per inch and connection point stitching. Most mass produced dress shirts fall between 12 and 14 SPI, while many premium brands come in at 16 to 20. While not the easiest to measure while in-store, this metric showcases a brand’s willingness to pay attention to the small things that will ensure a long lasting garment.

Connection point stitching will also be a great marker of a brand’s investment in quality. Many oxford shirts will fit more snugly in the shoulders and back, major connecting points for the collar and sleeves. How these areas are secured will be a key detail when determining what the longevity of the garment will be.

You will notice the different stitching approaches across the brands in the photos. J. Crew opted for a mass manufacturing route with a visibly lower stitch density than the other brands. The stitching is also noticeably looser with a small amount of give around the seams. While this will likely unintentionally help with snagging it is not great for durability although for the price, especially on sale, you can’t expect as much.

Kamakura is a brand we hold in high regard. The stitching on the Kamakura shirts is quite dense, right up there with Brooks Brothers. The stitching also blends into the garment much better than the other options. This is most likely due to the smaller stitch length although overall the small differences and attention to detail are noticeable around the garment.

Brooks Brothers has continuously offered high-end cloth button downs for years and have generally been made the standard.

It is worth noting that we have seen some harsh reviews online recently about the quality from their Asian-made offerings although the Made-in-USA products seem to have been unaffected. We do not have any recent Asian-made OCBD shirts from Brooks Brothers to confirm this.

Another important figure of quality on a shirt is the button stitching. As we covered in our J. Crew review, button stitching is not always easy to get right. While it cannot tell you the quality of the whole garment it is a telltale marker of a quality shirt when done right.

If the button stitching is exposed well-above the button indent itself, we would recommend finding a different shirt. We recently praised Kamakura for their excellent button stitching, although genuine manufacturing defects do occur, if you notice a consistent theme, it may be best to look elsewhere.

Wardrobe

The oxford cloth button down will no doubt be one of, if not the most versatile piece you will ever own. The same shirt can be worn in any season and on almost any occasion or time. From a fancy dinner with some of your well-dressed friends or special someone, to a summer gathering, you will never feel out of place.

The wider fitting oxford shirts make a perfect companion in summer to allow some breathing space for your body and the slimmer ones are a more comfortable option in winter. The Ralph Lauren shirt shown in the photos is incredibly lightweight in comparison to the Brooks Brothers shirt, showing the vast differences in materials available during the different seasons.

Perhaps find some different weights (listed below from the ones we tested) and styles or even a linen shirt with a button down collar for those days you just can’t take the heat (honorable mention to J. Crew here and shown in photo below).

Weights

Kamakura - 288-295 grams

Ralph Lauren - 249g

Brook Brothers - 329g

J. Crew OCBD- 251g

No matter what you might be wearing on a given day, there is no doubt you can find a place for the oxford cloth button down. It may not be the most flashy part of menswear but after all, it is a perennial essential of the prep look.

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What I’ve been up to... (Jack)

Listening - Louis Armstrong plays W.C. Handy / Atlantic City by The Band

Reading - Bluegate Fields by Anne Perry / The Robb Report magazine

(re)watching - Scorpio (1973), Laura (1944), Game of Thrones

Today’s showcase sits close to my professional heart. This was the first watch I ever bought for myself to mark a milestone: surviving right out of college my first year in the grueling world of New York ad agency life and transitioning into a more senior role at a fast-rising news publication. I knew my new role would put me in rooms with advertising executives and clients, so I needed a watch that felt like a true “big-boy” piece—classic yet credible, without feeling out of place or financially irresponsible at that stage of my life.

Enter the Omega Speedmaster Reduced. Yes, some watch snobs turn their noses up at the Reduced model, but I’ve always found it to be just about perfect. It checks every box that mattered to me then, and still does now: durability, timeless design, and a comfortable 39mm case that suits my smaller wrist beautifully. The price point made it attainable, and the proportions made it wearable every single day.

I picked it up at a great price through the original Crown & Caliber (pre-Hodinkee-merger days). While I didn’t buy it on its original strap (a decision I still regret), I’ve had a lot of fun over the years experimenting with different looks. It’s worn everything from secondary market Omega Speedmaster bracelets to a Horween Shell Cordovan brown leather strap, and today lives on an Uncle Straps US1171 bracelet. No matter the configuration, the watch never loses its charm, and after ten years of ownership, it’s still going strong.

I’ve always believed there are only a handful of truly timeless watches—designs that feel just as natural with a T-shirt and sneakers on a morning coffee run as they do at dinner and drinks in your favorite steakhouse. The Speedmaster Reduced is one of those pieces. While it works with almost anything, I especially love pairing it with a pale blue Oxford button-down, Alden loafers, dark denim, and my racer-green Baracuta G9 Harrington jacket come spring. Classic, effortless, and quietly confident—much like the aspirations I had when I bought it.

-SK

The Sunday Reserve

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This jacket is my most prized possession, and came to meet my eyes unexpectedly on eBay from a seller who had absolutely no idea what they had. Listed merely as “vintage white tuxedo jacket” followed by several buzzwords to feed the search algorithm. This listing didn’t even have an actual picture of the jacket until the third image, starting with 2 modern images from a J. Crew lookbook. If you’re a frequent secondhand online shopper, you know that with listings like this, whatever was inside either contained solid gold or complete garbage. Luckily, it was the former.

While the ivory jacket originated in the 1930s in classic bellied lapel styles like those found in Casablanca, all the hallmarks of 1960s tailoring and formalwear are featured in this jacket. The extra slim lapels instantly date it to the 60s, as does the ventless back (my favorite detail). Made with hot weather travelers exploring the globe to black tie summer gatherings in mind, this jacket is unstructured and extremely lightweight. While I cannot be certain of the material mix, my best guess is an 80%/20% wool-linen blend. The fabric is of supreme quality and extremely soft to the touch, as was more standard in the 60s. Another distinct detail from the period is the lower-than-average buttoning point. Many tuxedos throughout history and even today have higher buttoning points than normal suits, as it is perceived as more “buttoned up” and therefore formal. I believe this low buttoning elongates the silhouette and helps slim the figure, as does virtually all 60s tailoring. A final interesting detail is the double button, which is quite unusual throughout any 20th century tailoring, formal or not. It creates a distinct look and is a fantastic vintage detail.

I have personally worn this jacket a few times: once to a concert hosted by a friend, once to a Halloween party as 007 himself, and it is on the docket a third time for a summer wedding coming up in May. While we at TNBC generally believe it is best to stick to the classic details, the relaxed nature of the ivory jacket allows for a little bit of personality to show in the outfit. I will be wearing this with most of the classic black tie details: cummerbund, satin bow tie, and black formal pants. No doubt that the patent leather loafers would look fantastic, but I’m opting for two-tone penny loafers to help summer up the look a bit. I have two pant options for this jacket: a more classic, wide leg version that belongs with a 1950s Palm Beach jacket, or a slimmer, bootcut variant from the 1970s that I found thrifting without its matching jacket. I feel the 70s pair is a bit more of a congruent look for the time with the jacket; let me know which you prefer.

An interesting familial connection I didn’t make until after I got this jacket was that my grandfather wore almost exactly what I’m wearing in this article for his wedding in 1960. While celebrating their 65th wedding anniversary this past May, my grandparents showed the family their wedding album and I immediately noticed my grandfather’s pristine white jacket in nearly the exact same style. It has the same low buttoning point and slim lapel which fit his slender frame (fortunately passed down to my father and me) perfectly and emphasized the lost elegance of the era. A style icon to this day, you can find him at all family gatherings in thick wale corduroy pants, a plush flannel older than me, and brown tassel loafers that have been repaired or resoled more times than any of us can count.

I’m afraid he may have worn it better.

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As I sit on an Amtrak train heading south to the coast of New England. I look out the window upon the vast expanse of the Connecticut River covered on both banks with snow delivered by the large winter storm last week. I am reminded that the time of year to be wearing loafers is not here; yet here I sit on a warm train with a pair of ‘new to me’ G.H. Bass Weejuns Loafers enjoying the views of the Green Mountains waiting for the Spring season to arrive. While buying a pair of loafers during the winter in Vermont might not be the smartest decision, I am hopeful the warmer months will come in no time.

What’s Not to Love?

For the price of $40 shipped to my door I was excited to own my very first pair of Weejuns. While a little rough when I got them, a light go over with a horsehair brush and leather conditioner brought them back to life. The leather is supple and easily cared for while the burgundy color fits any outfit I pick out. From denim to corduroys I have not found anything I can’t wear with these loafers so far. While winter may not be the best season, on a day with clear sidewalks (few and far between here in the northern states) I am not afraid to brave the cold: as long as I have a pair of merino socks.

How to Find Them For Yourself

Buying shoes online can be difficult and this was no exception. My first scour landed me on a pair of Sebago loafers although the sizing didn’t fit right with my foot. When they arrived I immediately knew it wouldn’t work. I had to send them back and keep the search going. I ended up stumbling upon these and scooped them up for $33 dollars before tax and shipping. These ended up fitting great with the insert I use (arch support is a must for me). If you have enough determination and time you should be able to find a pair for yourself, just don’t limit yourself by brand or size. Use size ranges as each brand may run big or small, and watch out for your foot width as well. Check the stitching on the bottom of the sole and the condition of the leather to make sure you don’t buy a pair already needing resoling. If you notice any signs of cracking or seperating just be wary that they may be close to the end of the road with that sole. I find that good leather is not hard to find online and as long as you find something from a brand you know (or sometimes have to google) and have a bit of patience you should be in great shape.

What to Wait For

As I sit on the train I think about the slower life being here to stay as the holidays have passed and the brunt of the winter is upon us for the next month. I think this is a good time to take our breaks seriously, rest our minds and enjoy some peace in our lives where we can find it. Whether that be a nice cup of coffee, conversation with a friend, day on the slopes, movie, or for me, a new book. In only a month it will be March and we can start our journey towards the warmer weather, getting to trade (at least for me) my skis for tennis rackets, sailboats, and golf clubs, looking forward to the blissful spring rain and budding new life. Much like nature the last months of hibernation may be difficult but I think it is best we cherish them while they are here, knowing we will beg for their return when the summer heat swelters in just a few months. I wanted to end this on a positive note and wish everyone a meaningful, restful, and peaceful final months of hibernation before we get to wear our loafers once more.

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What I’ve been up to…

Listening -

Live in Cook County Jail by B.B. King

Try! - Live in Concert by John Mayer

Reading -

Buckley: The Life and the Revolution That Changed America by Sam Tanenhaus

Photographing -

(re)Watching -

The West Wing

Bridge of Spies

The product page starts off extremely strong with the Opening Ceremony Toggle Coat: an icon of cold weather preppy style, and something that PRL has done very well for many years. While “Andover Cream” is not the best color for longevity, it no doubt capitalizes on style, featuring “Team USA” jacquard trim on the hood interior, a buttoned throat latch, genuine wood toggles with jute closures, and an oversized Polo horse embroidery. Made in the US of 100% wool to boot (for $1,998 it had better be). This coat actually goes a little light on USA motifs compared to the rest of the collection, with simply a flag on the left sleeve and a custom developed Olympic team logo on the right chest. The Flagbearer Toggle Coat is also available in a slightly different style if that suits you better. A proper knee length ensures that this will also serve its actual purpose of keeping you warm while you parade through a stadium with your countrymen.

The next piece that had us audibly saying “woah” was the very next item on the page, the Opening Ceremony Sweater. We all know that PRL does a great sweater, but this one combines several great motifs into one: a relaxed fit, turtleneck upper, a fully embroidered US flag, and the signature ski sweater stars make this a showstopper, even when partially hidden under the duffle coat. The further absence of synthetic fibers keeps us placated, and a surprise USA embroidery on the back completes the aforementioned heavy, but tasteful motifs.

Moving out of the ceremony uniforms and into the general collection that encompasses more than 100 items. In the realm of sweaters we see being worth triple the retail price in 20 years (not financial advice), we come to the Team USA Wool Shawl Cardigan. While this will do some spring cleaning in your wallet (it’s already sold out, so no need to worry), this stands out as the author’s favorite in the collection. This shawl cardigan runs heavy on USA motifs: 3 different flag iterations, the Polo logo, varsity-style “26” patches, and the Olympic rings on the back. However, all those details are well-balanced and by no means visually overpowering, while all being embroidered. The red and black trimming at the top and bottom help balance this garment and keep it from appearing too starkly cream-colored.

Staying with the best of the best, the Team USA Pile Fleece Pullover with a striking ski jump motif stands out in color, but blends in with PRL’s history of printed fleeces, a few specifically related to skiing come to mind from years past. This piece goes the lightest on the ‘America in all caps’ branding, but still carries strong Olympic identity with a Team USA spell out on the back. Pile fleece material will always be made of fully synthetic fibers, but the manufacturing skill level required to execute a full print like this so well more than makes up for the (already sold out again, no need to stress your wallet) $598 price tag. There is an incredible amount of detail in the trees at the bottom of this graphic, and the skier, while large and in a contrast color, doesn’t overpower the entire front of the garment, leaving plenty of space for the Polo logo, which in this case looks closer to the RLX or Polo Sport logos.

An extremely close second favorite behind the Shawl Cardigan is the Team USA Shearling Jacket. While clearly not an on-mountain garment, this jacket gets every single detail correct and is pre-aged in classic PRL fashion. All real, all shearling, all leather, all authentic. A hanging double-buckle throat latch, back adjusters, and stitched-in flags and Olympic rings round out something else we’re confident will be worth a hefty some in 10 years (again, not financial advice). The aging on the jacket is very tasteful as well, with fading in all the right places throughout the arm and around the front pockets. While the retail is 20-30% above what even top-end shearling can run, this piece captures a moment in time while remaining timeless. A favorite detail: “Team USA” is hand painted on the undercollar, which is only visible when the collar is popped and the throat latches are put up.

Do not sleep on the customizable options in this line as well. Not part of the opening or closing ceremonies, but in the general collection, there are a few garments that you can personalize to your tastes. While a heftier price for what the garment is, this creates a one-of-a-kind piece to commemorate the collection.

The accessories in the general line are also not to be slept on. Full flag embroidery always comes at a premium with PRL, and while the Olympic collection is no different, the addition of the Olympic rings offers a more reasonably priced entry into the limited collection. We at TNBC feel that this collection will go down as the best capsule for this year’s Olympics (J Crew can’t compete no matter how many ads they run but the Alps Rollneck in Wool at least shares the same styling as the rollneck we liked in our seasonal review). If you are looking for something to pass down to the next generation the accesories are a nice touch…but at least say that you were there when you retell the story in your later years.

There is, unfortunately, a low light or two within the overall collection. Anyone that has much experience in winter sports knows that base layers are absolutely essential for nearly all activities, and often go no expenses spared. PRL seems to think that you’ll follow suit and spare no expense - however, the less than 25% wool blend on many of the base layers don’t leave us confident that they can do their job. And for $150, no doubt most athletes will opt for Smartwool (they probably would have anyways). We do also see mostly printed Polo Bear motifs throughout the “Villagewear” part of the collection, but something has to keep the lights on with the youth collectors of Polo. There is a missed opportunity for a fully knit Polo Bear sweater in either the opening or closing Ceremony uniforms, which would have sold out at $598, no doubt.

While not prolific gamblers, we are betting on Team USA being the best dressed during both Ceremonies and in the village this Winter Olympics, bar none. PRL combines American motifs and classic wintertime style to win the first competition in Italy this year.

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Nestled inside of one of the largest shopping districts on earth in Ginza City was the Kamakura Maker’s Shirts store. In the US when I had read up on the brand it seemed as if they were few and far between for lucky American consumers who could find them at a good price. The website is sparse and most information can only be found in store.

Let’s Talk Shop

Entering the well lit and displayed store I immediately notice the scale of the brand in Japan. From tourists like myself, to young Japanese financiers, to 80 year old men looking to find bespoke jackets and shirts for their holiday gatherings. We all found shelter in the same store, what seemed like a Japanese institution built to serve the old and young in an admirably impeccably dressed Japanese society.

The store was busy (I had to wait a long time to get those photos people-free) and the staff knew everything there was to know about the brand and fittings in both Japanese and English. On display they had a wall of their shirts in many materials, from wool to tropical cotton and linen. They had a variety of seasonal offerings: cable knit sweaters, merino crew necks, wool overcoats, and corduroy trousers.

On top of these seasonal offerings they had their latest collection labeled “Vintage Ivy” which contained corduroy and chambray shirts, classic oxford shirts with the University Stripe pattern, and interesting socks that were personally not my cup of tea.

I also visited the store in Osaka later in my trip and noticed similarly friendly staff and the same store offerings although perhaps worse English comprehension.

Styling

When talking about styling It was clear that many of their shirts were tailored for the Japanese buyer although they did have larger sizes but fitting slimmer than many would be used to. Even myself being over 6 ft (180cm) tall and on the slimmer side was able to find a shirt off of the sizing chart that fit nicely but perhaps I should have gotten the sleeve length a cm longer.

For the Vintage Ivy collection shirts they lean more towards the American styling we are used to and are definitely my favorite of the bunch. Around Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka I noticed many people on the street wearing Kamakura shirts which I identified from the interesting 3 button collar on the Vintage Ivy collection and the slim mother of pearl buttons. When speaking to some locals they immediately recognized the brand and were surprised to hear that I knew about their existence.

Although I didn’t purchase any for myself the accessories felt and looked fantastic. From ties to pocket squares and everything in between. Cuff links made with fantastic attention to detail and nice patterns. Ties in silk and wool, knitted and woven, patterned and solid. If my other experiences are anything to go by I imagine the quality is great as well

The trousers were definitely on the pricier side even with the weak yen but pricing we will talk about later. The chinos felt comparable to anything you would find at Brooks Brothers or Ralph Lauren with perhaps slightly better craftsmanship around the belt loops and hems, plenty left for alterations. The material choices were excellent with the same style it used across all the trousers in their lineup. The incredibly soft flannel used in the wool pants stood out as very premium. I could not find artificial fibers anywhere in the store, and believe me I did try.

Construction

As for the quality of the shirts themselves, let’s start with the buttons. The buttons are incredibly tightly bound to the placket of the shirt, so much so that taking the buttons out of the holes is not the easiest one-handed affair. The buttons are made of real mother of pearl and are noticeably thinner than the usual buttons you find on shirts.

On both the Vintage Ivy OCBD and their standard shirts from the shelves, the collar and shoulders both use a welt seam that is tight and sturdy. On the Denim shirts they have a faux double welt look in the collar which I believe this is a stylistic choice rather than a structural one. Both of the shirts lack substantial tuckaway material which is a gripe that I most feel with the Vintage Ivy edition. The last button ends above my waistline which proves a challenge with the material underneath. This could be more of a personal problem for myself but definitely something worth noting. I just wish they would have added some material or an extra button. This is less noticeable on the regular line shirts which have an extra button and slightly more material. Although the Vintage Ivy shirts do have a hanging ring which is a cool detail.

“While I can’t give a certain answer to the longevity of these shirts I would be confident in telling you that they will last a long while.”

The material they use feels substantial although when put on the scale they weighed significantly less than a comparable shirt from Brooks Brothers or Ralph Lauren which were around 340 grams while the Kamakura shirts weighed in the 290g range. This difference could be attributed to the extra material on the other shirts. The sleeves on the shirts differ with the normal shirts having 2 buttons on the sleeve while the Vintage Ivy line only has the one button at the wrist making it easier to roll up. Overall the quality is fantastic and can rival anything stateside. While I can’t give a certain answer to the longevity of these shirts I would be confident in telling you that they will last a long while.

Pricing

Even though the brand does technically import to the US (I believe the USD prices in the photos are the foreign prices) the prices for imported goods are nothing special for their increased price although they definitely rival the other big brands. In Japan the prices are truly spectacular especially for foreigners using the comparatively strong Euro, Pound, or Dollar (Subject to exchange rate shifts of course). I paid two different prices for their shirts, for which from what I could find they have 3 in total.

• Standard: 6,900 JPY (approx. $40)

• Premium/Vintage Ivy Collection: 9,800 JPY (approx. $60)

• High-End/Special Materials/Tailoring: 12,000 JPY (approx. $75)

This seems almost comical compared to the pricing we see from MiUSA products from J Press, Brooks Brothers, O’Connells, and Ralph Lauren. Mind you, all of their products are made in Japan and nothing that I found was offshored.

From my trip to Japan I can say that it didn’t take long to recognize that the Japanese artisans have tremendous respect and skill for whatever craft they pursue. Tailoring, textile manufacturing, cobbling, blademaking, auto manufacturing, they can absolutely do it all. It’s a part of their history after all: learning, practicing, mastering, and teaching. During the Meiji Restoration Era the Japanese had an influx of western trade come into the nation; keeping the faith and values of Buddhism and Shinto close to their hearts while embracing and mending many western products and practices into a distinctly Japanese society. I have developed an incredible appreciation for the crafts in the country and will absolutely return if given the chance even just for the Kamakura shirts and handcrafted kitchen knives.

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When I tried on each of the pants for the first time I noticed a few immediate differences. While they both are looser traditional fitting styles the Brooks Brothers pant seems about a waist size too large. Normally I sit in between a 29 and 30 waist although the pants from BB definitely sit naturally higher than the J. Crew pair and feel as if the waist is a 31 and seem to measure about 31 inches as well. The J. Crew pants measure only slightly over 30 and are more true to fit with a mid rise opposed to the Brooks Brothers pants which trends to a higher rise.

The belt loops on the two pants are opposites with the J. Crew loops looking reminiscent of their standard chinos and the Brooks Brothers pants having distinct wide and sturdy loops that extend around into the lining of the pants for a seamless look. Definetly a win for the Brooks Brothers pair here. Also notice how the wale goes in the same direction on the BB pair, not perpendicular and misaligned like the cheap-looking loops on the J. Crew pair, some good attention to detail that we expect from BB. The wale on the pants are slightly different with a slightly tighter 10 wale on the J. Crew offering compared to 8 wale for BB, this isn’t very noticeable unless you are looking for it and both are wide enough to differentiate between a regular corduroy ‘jean’ style pant and the more trouser-like ones that we have here.

The J. Crew pair has a functional buttoned coin pocket which completes the vintage look which is lacking on the BB offering. The button holes for the pockets on the BB pants are much more usable with the single wire of fabric making them easy to open and close although on a few occasions they had popped open in the middle of the day on their own due to the stretch in the fabric.

The zippers both feel sturdy and well made and the buttons are well stitched on both (not a guarantee with J.Crew if you have read the last review). The button lies on the inside of the BB pair with a clasp closure compared to the more mass-produced esque single button closure which is the same as their chino pants. The inside of the J. Crew pair has a hanging loop which is always helpful. Overall the styling is a preference here with both having slight differences although no large missing pieces.

As for materials we can get our first glimpse when checking the inside label. The Brooks Brothers pair as we mentioned briefly in our review last week has a 1% elastane blend while the J. Crew pair is 100% cotton. While this may seem irrelevant the 1% blend is immediately noticeable when wearing the pants and makes them feel incredibly soft to the touch although the stretching is a concern with durability which I will address later. Having worn both pants in the unusually frigid December temperatures of Vermont in the last few weeks I can happily say that they are both quite warm. Even when exposed to snow and rain they both stayed warm. If I had to pick I would say the J. Crew pair are slightly warmer but they are also using a thicker and heavier weight material than the BB pair which we found when putting them on the scale. Even with the roomier cut and seemingly more material used on the BB pants they still weighed almost 100g less (636 vs. 717) than the J. Crew offering. The BB pants also leave an extra 2 inches of hem which is great if you want to cuff the pants compared to only 1 inch with the J. Crew pair that could prove more difficult if you want to hem them.

When it comes to stitching there is only one glaring concern which comes with the Brooks Brothers pair on the inseam. While the wales on each side of the seam line up much better on the BB pants at the inseam stitch the pants can show through when lightly tugging from either side (shown below). When pointing in the sunlight this can be seen quite easily. The stretch in the fabric with the poor inseam stitch is most likely going to be the primary concern for durability with this garment. Tugging like this often occurs when adjusting in a chair or moving around on a sofa. Comparing this with the J. Crew pants where they did a topstitched seam to hold both pieces of material over each other to prevent any gaps. In the cold air with a gust of wind this is beneficial as there won’t be as much air to seep through to your skin which is why they may feel warmer upon first wear. The J. Crew pants had a loose thread when they arrived which is a source of concern and definitely not out of the ordinary for the brand. They also had some loose threads where the stitching ends on the button holes.

I do plan to bring both of these pairs to my tailor to get them brought in as they fit a bit wide for me although something to note is the Brooks Brothers pair has plenty of hem all around the pants to alter although the J. Crew pants have some hem it is not comparable. I plan to get them brought inwards so it is not a problem for me although this could affect some larger men.

“While not totally disappointing I may look to Ralph Lauren, O’Connells, or Fort Belvedere for my next pair of corduroys for a truly premium experience.”

Originally I was expecting to compare the J. Crew pants as the lower end alternative although as I spent more time wearing them and scrutinizing I started looking at them as equals to be decided between which says a lot about the quality of the BB pair. For this price on sale in the current state of textile prices I can say that both of these garments were worth what I paid, although they let down in their respective areas and neither was necessarily better than the other. While the Brooks Brothers pair excels for those prioritizing polished aesthetics, alterability, and comfort, J. Crew offers a more natural and seemingly durable option for those who can shop off the rack. While not totally disappointing I may look to Ralph Lauren, O’Connells, or Fort Belvedere for my next pair of corduroys for a truly premium experience.

First, suits and tailoring. From the 1910s to 1950s, the American business suit was defined in the relaxed and unstructured sack cut. It was the best cut for ready to wear as it accommodated the widest range of body types, and helped perpetuate ideals like post-war corporate conformity in the 1950s. Fast forward to 2025, and the first suit you see on the Brooks Brothers website is the “No. 1 Sack Suit in Pinstripe Wool Flannel.” While this may not be a true mid-century cut, it is a decidedly relaxed departure from the silhouettes seen from Brooks in the last 10 years, in a classic fabric that is sure to be timeless. The lapels are a decent size, and the two-button jacket sleeve and single vent provide classic American details that have set Brooks apart in the past. There is one other fabric option in this cut, a classic navy flannel option for someone who might feel pinstripe is too bold. Brooks does, however, fall short in much of their styling on web-based imagery, where jacket lengths barely get to the start of the thumb, as well as suits labeled “traditional fit” with a model wearing a suit likely a size too small, which just doesn’t convey the look most customers are looking for. There also seems to be no pattern for which suits are sold as one item, and which are two separate items that should be bought in tandem (Our recommendation is to check the ‘Complete The Look’ section to ensure you aren’t buying an orphan jacket). When purchased in the right size and given some tailoring these suits can be generational classics. The slim fit synthetic blend suits hide in the background under the Explorer line, no doubt to cater to the financial analysts splurging on their first suit.

“one could purchase only a few of the sweaters from this collection and have everything he needs by way of casual weekend warmth and office-ready cashmere. “

The new season offers lovely texture throughout the entire collection, most noticeably in knits (this texture continued into their dress shirts as well which a store rep made sure to make us aware of although we don’t go into dress shirts here). From 1950s references like the johnny collar cashmere polos to British country style motif sweaters in merino wool, this collection offers a great range of formality and texture. A standout for us at TNBC is the shawl collar cardigan sweater in a lovely windowpane intarsia complete with suede elbow pads, which would be an excellent statement piece for a holiday party. The ‘Ultimate Merino Wool Crewneck Sweater’ felt thin in store although this could be a stylistic decision for a year-round garment. Other sweaters in brushed wool and merino cable knit provide a complete collection for a TNBC reader; one could purchase only a few of the sweaters from this collection and have everything he needs by way of casual weekend warmth and office-ready cashmere. Most of these sweaters have a surprisingly vintage-inspired fit, more cropped at the waist than what we’re used to seeing from the likes of Brooks or Ralph Lauren. The added benefit of (nearly) all natural materials gives this set of knits the texture that a classic wardrobe needs this time of year. This section of the collection is somewhat immune to the majority synthetic blends and the preferences of the financial district towards quarter zips (though those are still at the bottom of the “New Arrivals” page and notably hidden away at their downtown store).

A great pairing for those classic-fit sweaters would be a proper pair of regular or high rise pants in an equally interesting texture to tie together a visually appealing and thermally insulating look. The pant offerings from the new season are a near 50/50 split of what we would consider within the aforementioned category and those that wouldn’t. We have noticed since COVID that BB has had a tough time with its pant offerings, usually with the more casual options like chino and flannel coming up short (and low). Regardless, corduroy pants are the standouts in this category, coming in both regular and relaxed cuts, thin and wide wales, and one with a prep-style (go-to-hell) pheasant embroidery. Very fairly priced especially on their holiday sale prices, however even the regular and relaxed fits have up to 2% elastane (Deep dive covering these corduroys coming soon). Another standout pair is the Classic Fit Wool Twill Dress Pants, appearing high rise with a double pleat and stylish coin pocket in 100% wool with a half lining. For other cotton and wool materials, the main disappointment comes from the low rise and slim leg many of them possess. Especially in winter, when many outfits are very top heavy - think an undershirt, button down, sweater, and jacket. The pant pairing should follow suit and be roomier as not to appear lopsided, however even the styling in some of the product photos has this incongruity on full display. This is not only visually unsatisfying, but makes the models (and you) look shorter from a distance as it does nothing to elongate the leg like a higher rise model would. Combine that and the limited size range that Brooks offers, and this part of the fall collection misses the mark for an enthusiast of a more vintage fit although those who don’t mind a more contemporary preference may be satisfied.

“While we are normally advocates for 100% natural materials, outerwear, especially utility outerwear, has room for synthetics so it can serve its intended purpose”

An unexpected highlight and the main source of the countryside influence in this new fall offering is the non-tailored outerwear. Many shooting references are made through suede patches, shoulder padding, and quilted mid layers that strike a great balance between the ruggedness of the countryside and the smoothness of the modern city street. What stood out to us was the Cotton Field Jacket. This field jacket strikes a great note somewhere between the Barbour Belted Jacket and a classic field jacket, with utilitarian details like a removable shearling collar and extended hand covers at the end of the sleeves. It comes in a surprising 100% cotton, which in person looks and feels softer than the website lets on, not exactly the rugged woven material. While we are normally advocates for 100% natural materials, outerwear, especially utility outerwear, has room for synthetics so it can serve its intended purpose. You’ll find some polyamide in blends and full polyester mid layers, but these are necessary evils if you’re hunting pheasant or traversing through Midtown on your way to get Cava. An outerwear garment that we believe has wonderful wardrobe potential is the Bomber Jacket which we believe would be more aptly named a Harrington jacket in their collection. Coming in a wonderful vintage style with a cropped elasticized waist and signature vertical pockets, not to mention a higher natural material content than the gold standard Baracuta G9, this comes in as a wonderful alternative to that jacket in a classic beige. We are not too impressed with the other color offerings, and feel this was an area that could have been more impactful.

TNBC particularly enjoyed the new releases in the neckwear section of New Arrivals as well: elements of equestrian style and the British countryside shine through as continued references. The collection is small but mighty, and Jack has his eye on the Hunting Scene and club-style ties. Belts, while not made by Brooks themselves, continue these motifs in needlepoint variations. While BB has always carried fantastic Scotland-made scarves, the new patterns this season can be skipped, but be sure to check on the pocket square offered in a delightful wool tartan. Accessories can make a good outfit great, and are one of the separators of enthusiasts and those who are just wearing clothes.

The recent craze among enthusiasts and analysts alike of Barbour and its associated countryside aesthetics have no doubt influenced what we’re seeing from Brooks Brothers this season. While this certainly means we are seeing more classic styling and details with intention of making the garment last a lifetime, these higher priced items have some sacrifices made either in material or build quality. This will either make the Explorer line seem more attractive, or have you paying to fix your garments a few years down the line. Ultimately, Brooks must cater to its largest audience of professional men who may go to Brooks asking what they should be interested in, not necessarily finding out for themselves what they are interested in. This requires the company to dilute some of the more authentic details and styling to appeal to the widest audience possible. A story much like that of Brooks pioneering the concept of ready-to-wear with their sack suit this review began with. We at TNBC are happy to see Brooks going in this direction regardless, and the tendency of the brand to be just a little bit behind the menswear zeitgeist means that they’ll have time to iron out some issues presented in this review, so keep your browser tuned to their website and your mind on the brand in the coming years to see if these classic blueprints can be improved year over year and season over season.

In the past I have covered certain pieces from each collection that I had purchased and stood out to me. I will not be doing the same for this review. Below I will include photos and personal experience with every garment I write about, covering the bases of the whole collection instead of going in depth on just a few items. The only items I personally purchased from this year’s collection are the classic rollneck sweater, as well as two of their ‘Broken-in’ oxford cloth button down shirts in a slim and classic fit.

Let’s start this review with a quintessential piece of every prep collection, the aforementioned oxford shirts. J. Crew only has a ‘Broken-in’ option for their oxford shirts which makes them soft and plush to the touch, definitely a worn in feel, and that is not a bad thing. The material used is not at the quality of some higher-end brands, though for the price matches up quite well with its few competitors. The material is on the thin side without feeling like a cheap fabric, just more lightweight.

It can be worn well under a sweater, blazer, or alone like any oxford shirt and the striped pattern colors look great. The only styling to note is even for a slim guy like myself the ‘Slim Fit’ is a little too slim and a bit suffocating when wearing with an undershirt, but this is partially a personal problem as I am right between sizing S and M. Perhaps size up with the slim and size down with the classic fit if you are like me. The shirt could also come down a bit more in the torso allowing for more tuck away material but that is a personal preference. The big gripe is the S,M,L.. sizing choice instead of numbered stylings. This would have alleviated my problem of the caught-in-between sizing which will definitely affect other men.

Now that I have gotten the good stuff out of the way, I have to address the theme of this review and the letdown of these shirts. When I picked up the oxford shirt off of the rack I took a look at some of the buttons and noticed some of the poorest stitching I have ever seen on a new shirt (shown below). I thought it could be a problem with the specific shirt so I looked at a few more, and a few more; Nope, in almost every shirt I noticed a button problem. This traces back to a few weeks earlier when I received a couple of the shirts in the mail and assumed mine was a one off. J. Crew nailed almost everything else about the basics in this collection except the stitching, and that pattern does continue. I conclude that the bones of their OCBD offering is good but only if they can fix their quality control and manufacturing issues.

After a disappointing first experience with the J. Crew collection this season I decided to look at some of their most heavily advertised material, the basket stitch sweater. The basket stitch sweater is made of pure cotton and nicely styled like their other offerings. It has a high neckline making wearing a button down underneath sometimes a bit uncomfortable but will cover an undershirt underneath allowing you to wear it as a standalone sweater if you choose. It had heft to the material even being cotton and the weave was well done giving off a good visual texture. The garment is fully fashioned, meaning cut from one piece of fabric with the ends attached by machine link. If you wear a necklace with a pointed edge it could catch and tug at the stitching in the neckline either damaging your jewelry or the garment, just something to be concerned about with this kind of neckline stitching and looser garment weave. Overall the basket stitch sweater seems well built although I would have liked to see some extra consideration taken with the neckline choice.

“Overall the basket stitch sweater seems well built although I would have liked to see some extra consideration taken with the neckline choice.”

Talking about J. Crew’s other sweater offerings this season, the other heavily marketed style was the rollneck sweater. Even though it is supposed to be nautical it was chosen to be woven in a heavy cotton. This is something that would make any sailor very cold out on the water, but on land like the rest of us it should serve its purpose just fine. I am willing to excuse the material choice as the wool options are far more expensive and are much more delicate; the cotton is also surprisingly warm although not insulating; the heft and weight to it feel cozy on an evening couch session or afternoon stroll. The styling is simply wonderful, the rollneck is quite customizable leaving room to roll the sleeves, hip, and neck up or down is great to have a more casual or dressed mood and gives it a vintage appeal. The heritage was found in the styling, bringing back memories of the past which was well executed. The shoulders are a bit thin and sometimes show through as the bottom of the garment pulls down but the stitching is well done (where there are stitches) and seams are clean. The garment from torso to neck is one piece of fabric so it is well held together and if taken care of, will last a long time. I would be careful with the loose knit and try to prevent snagging as the net-like, ribbed nature of the weave makes it very drapey and loose although it is part of the appeal. I will note that the cotton they used does have a fair amount of yarn bloom (the fuzzy pilling on the surface after a few wears), this is nothing to be concerned about generally if it is treated gently but does tell us something about the manufacturing process. J. Crew is most likely using short low-spin cotton which is slipping out of the twists and pilling. On higher end garments they will use long and stable fibers that are tougher to unbind. Again, this isn’t a big problem as it will go away and it is just an initial shed of the weakest and shortest fibers that likely won’t come back but it is something to note. A short go-around with a fabric shaver should clear it up.

Keeping the positivity was the J. Crew cashmere line. I was deeply impressed with how well they had constructed much of the cashmere line. The neckline has a flat-felled seam that keeps the edges from being exposed, wrapping them back under the torso fabric. This shows attention to detail from the brand and is a highlight of the collection. The cashmere was soft and plush as well as heavily marketed around New York Fashion Week although it seems they had plenty of stock left and have been on deep sales so perhaps they didn’t sell as well as they predicted, although I am not sure why as the quality was fantastic.

Something else to talk about was the cardigans, they were well built in construction although the cardigan I had found on the rack had only two holes stitched through instead of four. I checked the others and saw it was a QC flaw again. Cardigan buttons often get stretched and are subject to a fair amount of wear and tear so seeing this was incredibly disappointing. Once again, the styling and material choices were not the issue—the execution was. Talking about the stitching on the garment, all of the seams were done well with no exposed material. The cuffs were also rolled in leaving little room for snags and pulls. It may be worth getting the buttons resewn by a tailor if you find many of these items on sale as the material quality is quite good for the price, the buttons just seem to be a letdown.

“the material quality is quite good for the price, the buttons just seem to be a letdown.”

What caught my eye this year was the redone sport coat lineup. The two classic options of the tweed jacket and gold button navy blazer were the ones on the rack that I chose to take a look at. In recent years J. Crew has made their sport coats an afterthought in their lineup but after speaking to some employees and the store manager who gave me the rundown on this year’s collection, it seems that the brand has decided to put more effort into them for this season’s run. I assume they are looking to redefine their brand image for a higher-end market as we saw with the cashmere. The tweed jacket is using high quality 370g weight wool which is a heavy weight fabric from the Moon Mill in England. From our research it seems to be a highly reputable mill that supplies a wide range of brands with fabric. The jacket was in their classic (Crosby) styling with well sewn buttons and a good lining. In isolation this jacket is a big step up from their recent options and for the price of $448 retail it raises the question of how much more you need to spend for a good looking jacket. Some other options to consider in this price range would be the No. 1 Sack Coat in Harris Tweed from Brooks Brothers which is currently on sale as of writing this for $558 (review coming soon on Brooks Brothers) although retails for around $800. The navy blazer was more of the same with styling, a slim and attractive cut that runs a bit small (as is normal with J. Crew slim-fit). The offering they had in store seemed to be one of their all season offerings with a wool-cotton blend although that particular style with the gold buttons is likely in-store only as we cannot find this particular garment anywhere on the website, although the 100% wool one is available for $448 (We saw the cotton blend ones in different styles on sale for $250 at one point this week while doing research for the review). As seems to be a theme the buttons are where the price starts to show, getting them tightened up would definitely be recommended with some loose threads showing off the rack. The stitching throughout the rest of the garment seemed on par with some higher end offerings and overall the material felt a small step below the tweed although still quite good especially for the price. For trying to compete with the lower-end segment the material quality put much of the competition to shame with the closest contender most likely being Bonobos who frequently use synthetic fibers and disappointing linings in their jackets and aim more toward the young New York finance crowd. We don’t have very much experience with Bonobos jackets but from their website and the ones I have seen in person the J. Crew option is well-made in comparison. (Another pretty basic carry-over offering from their past collection is shown in the bottom photos. Updated with perhaps more interesting materials although nothing we thought was worth noting specifically.)

Looking around the rest of the store there were a few curious workwear offerings and odd coats they had on display. The peacoat in the photos was well-made and at a decent price point if you are in the market for one, but I would go try it on yourself in store as peacoats sizing can change drastically from person to person. The car coat they had on offer was nothing special for the price of almost $600 although definitely well-thought-out design wise with a cross neck button collar and well-placed jacket pockets. Other workwear they had on display were barn coats that mimic the classic L.L. Bean designs. If you are in the market for a new barn coat I would recommend buying them from L.L. Bean and not from a copycat design as no one gets it better than the classic. The J. Crew offering is quite nice with the big corduroy collar and well-stitched buttons but for more money I can’t imagine that it is much better if at all than the original. There were also some odd garments that seemed like remnants from the old J. Crew were still on the rack, something worth noting (Photo of a sweater like this shown in the bottom photos with the material label).

“remnants from the old J. Crew were still on the rack”

J. Crew also launched a brand new line of denim this year which is their ‘Classic Fit’. From what we can tell the 484, 770, and 1040 naming scheme is now totally reserved for their ‘Stretch’ line of denim which contain varying amounts of synthetic fibers. Anywhere from 2% to 30% so make sure you are buying the right ones. The new line is made well with solid rivets and good denim, the fit seems to be like the 770 straight-fit but with no taper toward the calf. It is an attractive cut although with similar options from Wrangler for less expensive we find it hard to recommend unless it’s on sale. The Wrangler denim is a classic and definitely worth checking out if you are looking for a rugged pair of jeans. Prep is starting to embrace denim and it may be worth giving a dark wash pair of jeans a try.

“Prep is starting to embrace denim and it may be worth giving a dark wash pair of jeans a try.”

The last specific item we wanted to talk about was their new ‘Classic Trouser’. This is another one of their offerings from the slimmed down collection that covers a lot of bases without the fluff of different cuts and stylings like they had in the past. The simplification of the collection has been a great move from the brand and we wish they would condense it even further to a back-to-basics brand and narrow down the collection. The basics seems to be what they are doing best with this garment being no different. They use a high quality wool with a true straight-fit style that will fit many men. The buttons are well-stitched with a cross button on the inside to help with a beltless look and comfort as well as hold the trousers flat on slimmer men like myself. The higher rise is very welcomed allowing them to sit on the true waist and come pre-cuffed at the bottom. If you remember my previous review you would know that this is not the first of this trouser line I have reviewed and the ‘Classic Trouser in Canvas’ they had on offer over the summer scored similarly high praise from myself and their ‘Classic Chinos’ have garnered a similar reputation as the best for the price.

Overall the takeaway from this review is that J. Crew is in about the same place they were 6 months ago when I published my last review, just this time with a few good looking sport coats and a removal of some of the dreadful styles they kept dragging along season to season. The ‘Seaboard Knit’ seems as though it is sadly here to stay with its synthetic mess of materials; the button stitching and certain sweater seams are a concern but the bones of a solid lineup is still here. The materials have been stepped up and some of their offerings were quite the welcomed surprise. From a short conversation with a store rep it seems they have been able to turnover more men’s inventory in recent months than in the past and they have received a lot of praise for certain pieces like the boisterously promoted cashmere line which was executed perfectly and helped them reach a higher-end target audience. The focus on materials was a smart choice from the brand although they now need to focus on their manufacturing and quality control as what they have put out for their oxford shirts is nothing short of disappointing. Then again I find myself reaching back for their OCBD’s week after week so clearly they have some appeal. The Kingdom of Prep seems to have followed the path less taken by brands nowadays although it seems they have done a bit of off-roading that they need to smooth out.

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Even the bag had a loose thread…

The gentleman’s at-home bar is a timeless and refined reflection of himself. In his home, he is the arbiter of taste. It’s important to have the classics refined to infinity, but to also be open to the way a guest may prefer their cocktail mixed. While the trends of the mixology industry may point towards exotic ingredients and twists-on-a-classic, a carefully considered, modestly stocked, and efficiently run home bar remains an immovable pillar of the gentleman’s life at home.

Whether an evening with guests or in solitude, the bar provides what you need. These are recommendations to consider, but do not take these as gospel. Acquire the basics then refine them to your personal taste and allow your home bar to speak on your behalf.

The Cart, Cabinet, or Shelf

Where the bar lives is the most variable part. If you’re a homeowner in Connecticut, you may have the room for an entire butler’s pantry or wet bar. If you’re a renter in Chinatown, you’ll need to find some creative solutions. No matter the bones, the guts remain the same, though.

We are proponents of the mobile bar cart, as we believe that it offers the flexibility of space while still allowing some grandeur in presentation. It also allows a bit of your stylistic personality to show through, as there are a myriad of cart options to be found. While some of us at TNBC are still on the hunt for the perfect vintage cart, a starter from Wayfair is doing just fine for the time being. If your home allows, a cabinet behind closed doors speaks of restraint and elegance, or a collection of fine spirits on a clean, minimal shelf displays your discernment and will best showcase rare finds.

What You Really Need

Making a home bar can be daunting, looking online and through forums, discovering all of the equipment you may or may not need. We are going to give you a list of what we have for our home bar setups so you can decide for yourself what may or may not be necessary for making drinks at home. We tend to stay on the lenient side and will only include what we refer to in this guide. (we included pictures at the bottom of the article)

• Mixing glass

• Bar spoon

• Jigger

• Citrus juicer

• Strainer

  • Double strainer

• Shaker

  • Boston 2 Piece Shaker (More reminiscent of a professional bar)

  • Cobbler 3 Piece Shaker (Better for casual users and looks stylish)

• Decanters

  • Wine

    • Made of fine crystal and in elegant shapes

  • Spirits

    • Hardier crystal and rougher aesthetic design, with a stopper

• Glassware

  • Wine glasses

    • Bordeaux Glasses

    • Champagne Flutes

  • Bar glasses

    • Rocks Glass

    • Highball Glass

    • Coupe or Martini Glass

The Basics Done Right

Now that you have a home and some equipment for your bar, we need to talk about the fun part, booze. Depending on what types of spirits you prefer or the drinks you plan on making, you may decide to have multiple components of one or be rid of another. For the sake of simplicity in this guide, we will talk about what we consider the basic four drinks: the old fashioned, the highball, the martini, and the sour.

The TNBC Drinks Guide

The Old Fashioned

• While there is a way of making one, the old fashioned has seen a myriad of iterations since its inception in the mid-20th century. There still exist today regional variations in places like Wisconsin and Buenos Aires, but we’ll walk you through the generally accepted method.

What You’ll Need

• Usually composed of a dark and already complex liquor on its own such as dark rum or whiskey, specifically bourbon or rye is common for a sweeter or spicier drink. Swap in Añejo tequila or brandy if you’re feeling adventurous.

• Sugar cubes or simple syrup are used for a touch of sweetness in the drink, personally we use simple syrup as it lands a more consistent and smoother product, it also aids in diluting the drink.

• Bitters are incredibly important in the drink, adding complexity and depth to the base of the drink. Mix and match orange and aromatic bitters or try something unique like cardamom or peach bitters, it will never disappoint. Starting with Angostura bitters is never a bad choice, and in our opinion don’t be afraid to use them, rather use a bit too much than too little.

“Rest easy knowing that most of your guests are not there to critique your ice-making skills but to enjoy the atmosphere you present them”

• Ice is a bartender’s best friend. Although it can be easy to get caught up in the clear ice craze and make it feel like your enemy, rest easy knowing that most of your guests are not there to critique your ice-making skills but to enjoy the atmosphere you present them. Our recommendation is to buy some molds for larger cubes or spheres online like this one from Williams & Sonoma although there are a plethora of options out there.

The TNBC Old Fashioned Template

Ingredients:

• 2 oz. Dark Spirit (Bourbon, Rye, Dark Rum)

• Splash Simple Syrup (To your taste)

• 2-3 dashes Bitters

• Ice

• Garnish: Orange Peel

Equipment:

• Mixing Glass

• Bar Spoon

• Rocks Glass

Method:

1. Add sugar or simple syrup to a mixing glass

2. Add bitters

3. Add spirit of choice

4. Add ice and stir with bar spoon for 20-30 seconds to chill the drink and dilute

5. Pour into rocks glass with a large ice cube already placed inside that has been sitting out to adjust to room temperature. Pour a little at first to temper the ice and prevent cracking before finally pouring in the rest.

6. Cut a slim strip of orange peel, avoiding the white pith. Twist over the drink to expel essential oils and aroma. Cut a strip down the middle and place on the rim of the glass for presentation.

How to Explore

Above we have provided a basic template for the drink, but it is far from a firm judgment. We encourage you to experiment with sweeter or drier drinks, or change up the flavor profile by using different types of bitters or making your own flavored simple syrups.

Other drinks that branch from this include the classic Manhattan, adding sweet vermouth creating a wonderful palate of sweet and spicy notes; or the Monte Carlo, which uses rye whiskey and Bénédictine instead of simple syrup giving it a botanical and spirit-forward character.

The Highball

The highball can be whatever you’d like it to be. Gin and tonic, scotch & soda, 7 & 7, and the Ranch Water are all classic variations of the highball formula. The key, and where the cocktail gets its name, is from the glass that it is presented in. The highball is simply a spirit and a carbonated mixer. That’s it.

What You’ll Need

• Spirit

• Carbonation

• Ice

• Garnish

The TNBC Highball Template

Ingredients:

• 2 oz. Spirit

• 4-6 oz. Soda or Tonic Water

• Garnish: Lemon Peel

• Ice

Equipment:

• Highball Glass

• Bar Spoon

Method:

1. Fill the Highball glass completely to the rim with ice.

2. Pour the spirit over the ice.

3. Gently pour the soda water down the side of the glass to fill, preserving carbonation.

4. Give one single, gentle stir from the bottom up. Do not over-stir.

5. Express the lemon peel over the drink and add it as a garnish.

How to Explore

While there is no definitive beginning for the highball as a concept, it is strongly associated with drinking culture in Japan, who do a whiskey & soda like no other. The Ranch Water originates from west Texas: simply tequila, mineral sparkling water, and a squeeze of lime juice, a light and refreshing drink after a day of ranching.

The aforementioned two combinations are favorites of TNBC, along with the G&T. We encourage you to try a liquor on its own, and then in a highball with a squeeze of citrus to see how the dilution and garnish bring out flavors that may not have been present when drinking a whiskey or tequila neat.

The Martini

Perhaps a drink that is open to much interpretation, the martini remains divisive in how your guests may like it prepared. While some of us at TNBC are gin martini only drinkers, vodka gained traction in the mid-20th century as the bold spirit of choice. Like the old fashioned, the bones of the drink are similar no matter your liquid choices, allowing you to refine your own personal taste to infinity, and maybe come up with something you can name after yourself or a woman from the British Treasury you fall madly in love with.

What You’ll Need

• Spirit

• Dry Vermouth

• Garnish

• Ice

The TNBC Martini Template

Ingredients:

• 2.5 oz. Gin or Vodka

• 1 oz. Dry Vermouth (Adjust to your taste, from just a rinse for extra dry to 2:1 )

• Garnish: Lemon Twist or Green Olive

Equipment:

• Mixing Glass

• Bar Spoon

• Bar Strainer

• Chilled Coupe Glass

Method:

1. Fill the mixing glass with ice.

2. Add the vermouth, then add the gin or vodka.

3. Stir briskly with the bar spoon for 30-40 seconds. The glass should be frosty.

4. Strain into a well-chilled coupe glass.

5. Express the lemon peel over the glass and add as a garnish or drop in an olive.

How to Explore

As mentioned in the introductory paragraph, the martini is open to many interpretations. Most people will drink a martini “dry” or “dirty,” a.k.a. the two classic variations: dry, with light vermouth and usually nothing more than a lemon as garnish; dirty, with a splash of olive brine and at least two olives on a stick as a garnish.

Other notable variations we recommend include the Perfect Martini, with equal parts sweet and dry vermouth accompanying the spirit, and the Vesper Martini from Casino Royale: 3 parts vodka, 1 part gin, half part Lillet Blanc (Kina Lillet is unfortunately no longer produced) with a lemon peel garnish or an 8 to 1 martini. James Bond was a serious alcoholic.

Speaking of Bond, the shaken vs stirred debate lives on mostly in the Bond universe, and results in minimal difference in real life. Even if you’ve had thousands of martinis, you are extremely unlikely to notice any difference. There are those that would argue you will bruise gin by shaking it excessively, however a real scientific study finds that oxidation as a result of shaking results in virtually no change in flavor or profile.

We encourage the audience of TNBC to have an exploratory knowledge of variations like the espresso martini and the Gibson; their mastery should come second to that of the classic styles.

The Sour

“Like many things in men’s fashion, we can thank the British Navy for this piece of mixology.”

The Sour is not one drink but a format for many. The Spirit, Sour, Sweet mix is a combination that satisfies the human palate, touching every part of our flavor senses. Like many things in men’s fashion, we can thank the British Navy for this piece of mixology.

The story goes that sailors had rations for rum from the Caribbean islands as well as citrus which was used to prevent diseases like scurvy, which stemmed from a lack of vitamin C. It is surmised that they mixed their sailor rations together to create the first sour cocktail, the Grog. The drink proved potent, earning its own verb for its name, ‘groggy’. This is now the feeling we associate with being hungover. British sailors definitely knew how to enjoy themselves.

What You’ll Need

• Spirit

• Sour

• Sweet

• Foam (Optional)

The TNBC Sour Template

Ingredients:

• 2 oz. Spirit (e.g., Bourbon)

• 1 oz. Fresh Lemon Juice

• 1 oz. Simple Syrup

• (Optional) 1 Egg White

Equipment:

• Cocktail Shaker

• Strainer

• Rocks or Coupe Glass

Method:

1. Add the spirit, lemon juice, simple syrup, and (if using) egg white to your shaker.

2. If using an egg white, dry shake without ice to agitate and unravel the proteins (denaturation) in the egg to create the large frothy foam without diluting the drink. Shake vigorously for 20 seconds.

3. Add ice and shake again.

4. Strain into your glass. You can either ‘dump’ the contents (including the ‘dirty ice’ from the shaker) or strain over fresh ice, if you desire.

How to Explore

“The Lemon Maple is a great way to embrace the new season while still longing for a summer staple.”

The whiskey sour has variations that go on for eternity. The combination of a spirit, lemon juice, and syrup is the base for many cocktails like the Daiquiri as we mentioned, but here are a few of our suggestions to get your own creative mind started.

The New England seasonal favorite of our Editor-in-Chief Theo, the lemon maple (or maple bourbon sour). Swap out the usual simple syrup for a smokey maple syrup (Bonus if it’s from Vermont!) and enjoy with bourbon or rye. The lemon maple is a great way to embrace the new season while still longing for a summer staple. Go with the rye for a spicier and more jumpy drink, stick with bourbon if you enjoy a cleaner, sweeter, and woodier drink to compliment the maple syrup.

If you are feeling exploratory you can make your own pomegranate simple syrup to make a pomegranate sour. Use pomegranate juice instead of water while making your simple syrup to your desired ratio and it will provide a great variation for any drink (plus you can layer it to make some cool looking drinks).

In Europe and Stateside, pomegranate is considered a niche ingredient, but while our editor was living in the Middle East, they were plentiful. This led to an exploration into its applications in mixology. Feel free to make a different simple syrup and experiment, like blueberry or raspberry, where the same method applies.

If you decide to get involved with triple sec as your sweet component you open your doors to many cocktails that stem from the sour, like the sidecar (could have its own section), or the margarita which swaps in lime juice and tequila. No matter the route you choose, the Spirit, Sour, Sweet will always be a staple to build from. In our opinion it is the best starting platform for cocktail experimentation as the possibilities are endless.

Let’s Talk Spirits

Distillation has been around for thousands of years, with the exact place or date of origination unknown. Likely invented for medicinal purposes, spirits have taken on numerous associations and iterations in the modern era. The simplicity of the distilling process means that you can inject any amount of extra steps, techniques, or flavors you deem necessary to create a complex and desirable liquor. Thus, spirits come from thousands and thousands of different brands and variations. At the end of each section we will provide our recommendations for bottles in bold that we think are perfect to get you started.

Whiskey

We at TNBC find whiskey to be extremely divisive among the gentlemen of the world, but which kind should you buy? American versions from Kentucky or Tennessee? Irish or Scottish? Canadian?!? And within each kind, what complexities do you prefer? What’s the sweet spot for aging? Below we will cover what you need to know, if you have your set preferences, feel free to skip the section.

Rye has a minimum of 51% rye grain used in distillation, whereas bourbon is a minimum of 51% corn, and both must be made in the US under certain standards. Rye comes out spicier and with a little more intensity, whereas bourbon comes out sweeter and smoother.

How long a whiskey is aged affects this as well. You’ll often hear the term “Kentucky straight” with bourbon, which means it was made and distilled entirely in Kentucky and aged for at least 2 years in newly charred American oak barrels. Tennessee whiskey uses the Lincoln County Process, a charcoal filtering step that is known to increase smoothness. The term ‘bottled-in-bond’ is also important, signifying the aging process it has gone through. It is a US federal government certification ensuring that a spirit is produced by a single distiller in a single season, aged in a federally bonded warehouse for at least four years, and bottled at exactly 100 proof.

For a well-priced entry level bourbon and rye that fit perfect for cocktails and sipping straight we can recommend Evan Williams Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky straight bourbon, and Old Rittenhouse Bottled-in-Bond Rye which are both approachable 100 Proof bottles to start your exploration into the world of whiskey drinks.

Irish whiskey has a high percentage of malted barley in its grain mix, thus is often a little lighter and smoother than something like rye. Obviously, it must also come from Ireland. Distilling three times rather than two also increases smoothness, and Irish whiskey is often aged in used bourbon or sherry barrels to impart some sweetness into the bottle.

Scottish whiskey or Scotch is a unique whiskey that is often associated as more of an elevated liquor that stands above its whiskey competitors. This is likely due to the fact that scotch is often aged longer than its compatriots, some as many as 18 years or more. While only required to be aged three years in oak casks, scotch is often standardized around ten to twelve years before it is considered as a contender in the fine scotch category.

Of course, scotch comes from Scotland, and is often smoked with peat to impart a unique flavor that makes scotch instantly recognizable in smell and in taste. While it is mixed in cocktails on very rare occasions due to its age and complexity; it is often enjoyed with a cigar to compliment its flavor rather than hiding it behind a complex drink.

Reaching out to a trusted source we were given a recommendation to share. For something to get you into the world of high quality scotch whiskey at a premium price point the Glenmorangie 14 Quinta Ruban punches above its weight with some sweet, and woody notes.

While we didn’t want to grant them their own sections entirely, it may be worth noting that like many types of alcohol recently, the Japanese do it very well. Japanese whiskey is perhaps the most notable of the group; The famous Suntory Distillery could be a good place to start. The other one we didn’t mention was Canadian whiskey. Canadian whiskey is sometimes referred to as “Canadian rye” or “Canadian blended whiskey.” It is not the most important part of a bar and is not really notable but in our experience, however, those who drink Canadian whiskey are extremely loyal to it. It is usually a bit lighter and smoother than bourbon and made from a higher rye content. A well-known brand for Canadian whiskey is Forty Creek Whiskey so maybe consider having it around for any of our northern neighbors should you live stateside.

Gin

Gin starts out much the same as vodka: simply a distilled grain spirit. You’ll often hear about Americans making gin in their bathtubs during Prohibition, and this is due to the relatively simple process of taking a strong, neutral spirit and infusing it with botanicals. These botanicals are often juniper berries, citrus, or spices that can result in millions of different flavor profiles under the umbrella of gin.

In more industrial, out-of-home processes, the infusion is distilled again for maximum extraction of flavor and nuance. That’s what makes this spirit so compelling to us at TNBC, it can be endlessly complex or strikingly simple and approachable. Beefeater and Tanqueray are the two mass market gins at reasonable prices that deliver on precisely what gin should be - strong, complex, and sharp. Because the flavors are best highlighted in a spirit-forward drink like a martini, high end gin is especially coveted, The Botanist being a favorite of more than one of our writers.

You may hear the term London Dry gin when exploring different variations. This explains the distilling process more than geographical origin. London Dry’s main appeal is that it is intensely juniper forward, often the flavor profile the masses associate with gin. For anything not labeled as such, that does not disqualify it from consideration, however it usually signifies a more citrus or fruit flavored profile, usually something like the cucumber-forward note found in Hendrick’s Scottish gin or the anise-first blend of Gunpowder Irish Gin. If you want to explore the world outside of the classic London dry we suggest starting on the other British Isles although Japan has some fantastic gins as well that should not be overlooked.

Tequila and Mezcal

Once a party drink that has now become incredibly popular in the United States, agave spirits are having a mass market boom post-COVID. This is, like many other spirit booms, attributed to the ability to give the spirit intense nuances by making small changes in production, especially in the field of mezcal. Many kinds of agave can be used to create mezcal, and the unique production method of cooking the agave hearts in underground smoke pits before crushing and distilling the liquid imparts not just a unique aroma but a flavor profile completely different from that of tequila.

Tequila is also made of agave, like mezcal, however only blue weber agave can be used in the production of tequila. While the agave hearts are cooked, crushed, and distilled like mezcal, tequila is missing the smoking part of the cooking process, thus creating a cleaner and crisper liquor. However, only tequila blancos like Espolòn are bottled immediately after distillation. Tequila reposados like La Gritona are aged in oak barrels for two months to one year, tequila añejos like Hiatus are aged for one to three years, and tequila extra añejos like El Tesoro Paradiso are aged for three years or more. Some brands may create aged tequila that is cleaner and crisper by aging it in newly charred barrels (like bourbon), or they may choose used casks to impart the unique flavors of the liquor or wine (like rum) that was aged before the tequila.

With all of the different methods, aging times, and finishes that can be imparted to create a unique tequila drinking experience, there has been a recent rise in high-end tequilas coming into the market. We at TNBC recommend añejo and extra añejo spirits be enjoyed on the rocks or neat for the most immersive experience, while mezcals can be enjoyed on their own or substituted in tequila cocktails for an upgrade to classic drinks.

Rum

Rum is an underappreciated and underexplored spirit in general bartending. There are, however, plenty of specialty bars and restaurants that do amazing things with rum. Most rums produced on any kind of industrial scale start with molasses, the thick syrup left behind after sugar crystals are removed from boiled sugarcane juice. The flavor profile of rum is largely determined by how long the fermentation process is allowed to continue.

White rum often goes through a short fermentation and is immediately ready to drink after distillation and dilution, whereas dark rum is left to age. This could be in any barrel, as there is no classification standard, but it is most commonly reused bourbon barrels to impart a deeper flavor and color into the rum.

Mostly seen mixed in tiki-style drinks, rum remains unrivaled in complex flavor and versatility in cocktails. A recommendation from us is the daiquiri, the way Hemingway used to drink it, or the dirty mojito, an easy way to impart some interesting flavor into a classic drink by swapping in dark rum.

For our recommendations we can vouch for a bulk white rum like Bacardi as fine for most drinks as it is a blank canvas for you to build from just don’t go too cheap, make sure it is 100 percent white rum and not blended with any neutral spirits.

For dark rum Appleton Estate 3 Year is a good bottle for mixing although can also be enjoyed sipping but lacks the complexity of some more expensive bottles, Angostura 7 Year or 1919 are fantastic bottles to enjoy straight or mixed. Mount Gay XO is a great rum if you are looking to sip and enjoy

Vodka

“There are plenty of local distilleries across America and Europe that make fantastic vodka, sometimes the best one is the one closest to home.”

While vodka is usually overlooked as the usual party drink of college kids it provides bartenders with something else: a blank slate. Vodka is the clean plate in bartending that carries your drink to create something you love, whether that is by making a base for a limoncello drink, or wanting to let the niche liqueur you found at a boutique shop stand out, it is incredibly versatile. If you come across an interesting ingredient you want to try, let vodka be the carrier for it, you can never go wrong.

If you are hosting a large group there are a plethora of batch cocktails made from vodka (or white rum) that can satisfy everyone and take the pressure off of the host (you), making it a truly versatile liquor that can come in handy when you might need it. It may not be as interesting as whiskey but it has its time and place in any home bar, cementing itself the go-to base spirit.

If you are looking for something smoother you can spend a bit more and look for something local, supporting a distillery near you. There are plenty of local distilleries across America and Europe that make fantastic vodka, sometimes the best one is the one closest to home. For the rest of us any bottle will work just fine, just make sure it clarifies that it is 100% vodka somewhere on the bottle (some brands can mix in a random neutral spirit to cut costs) and comes from a trusted brand.

Costco Vodka in the US is actually quite a good value if you are looking for something to get the job done or Smirnoff (we also received a recommendation for Sobieski) is fine as well. You just want something you know is pure and free of any additives that gives you a dependable, clean, and simple base for all of your drinks.

Liqueur

When speaking about liqueur it’s important to understand the wide variety available and the ones we recommend starting with. Many liqueurs define the drinks they make and cannot be substituted or replaced in most circumstances but there are a few that stand out as more useful and broad reaching than others. A handy Triple Sec (a type of orange liqueur) like Cointreau or De Kuyper’s (pick based on your budget) are a good mix between sweetness and flavor, both being trusted by bartenders the world over. The other types of orange liqueur like Grand Marnier and Curacao are not necessary to keep around in our opinion unless a specific recipe calls for them as triple sec can satisfy most needs.

The second important Liqueur would be Amari (bitters in Italian), these drinks are spicy, bitter, yet sweet components that are crucial to many drinks like the Negroni, Little Italy (Twist on the Manhattan drink using Cynar) or the now modern staple and favorite for many in the younger generation, Aperol Spritz. Campari, Cynar, and Aperol provide a good base for you to work from and cover much of the ground for being able to make a large variety of drinks but acquire them as you need, as with everything in this guide, buy them as you grow your horizons, no need to buy them all at once. Campari is going to be the most spice forward of the bunch, Cynar by comparison is sweeter and earthier, with more herbal notes, Aperol being the sweetest of the bunch with the least complex palate. The last group of Liqueur we mentioned in the guide above was vermouth (ver-mooth).

For vermouth you can usually divide it into two types: sweet/red vermouth (technically red vermouth is a type of sweet vermouth but we are going to bundle them together for simplicity here) and dry vermouth. Sweet vermouth provides a rich, honeyed, and complex flavor with notes of dark fruits and vanillas, while dry vermouth tends to be brighter, and more floral, yet bracingly dry and complimented by citrus flavors. Sweet vermouth is used in the classic Manhattan and dry vermouth in martinis as we mentioned above. Cocchi di Torino in our opinion is the king of sweet vermouth and readily available. For dry vermouth there are a few options that can change your martini although picking one based on your preference is likely a good idea. If you are looking for a full bodied drink Carpano vermouth is fantastic, for something more mellow Dolin would be our other recommendation. I can’t advocate for it personally but Noilly Prat is also a member of the classic club and enjoyed by many

This guide was quite a joy for us to make and was a big departure from our usual content. We hope you enjoyed it and perhaps got inspired to start or expand your bartending horizons. If you like this kind of writing be sure to let us know through our readers survey below so we can continue publishing the things you want to read. We made this guide in the style of much of our other writings, as a base. We wanted to equip you with the basics for everything you need to know to conquer a new hobby, especially one as daunting as bartending. The photos we promised are below.

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The first and likely the safest of these is a pair of cashmere-lined leather gloves. An absolute necessity if you live somewhere where you aren’t walking from the door to the car and back, or if you live anywhere that is exceptionally cold. While these will occasionally draw comparisons to the character Hitman or a certain American football player (make sure your pair fits), in many places they’re so necessary the association is easily avoided. Investing in a proper pair will yield a much better experience year over year, and as long as they are stored in a cool and dry place, will last forever.

We recommend the cashmere-lined leather Gloves from J. Crew, or if you are willing to spend a bit extra, winter glove maker Hestra offers excellent lined leather gloves in a wide variety of styles and linings (skiers will also know this brand for their mittens which we can vouch for as well should you be in the market). Cashmere is the best lining for this type of glove due to its exceptionally plush hand feel and all day comfort. We believe black is the best color here, because no matter the colors or textures of the outfit you’re wearing, it can fit in. The J. Crew gloves also have an interesting houndstooth pattern on the underside of the wrist to turn up if your jacket sleeve is too slim to go over the glove.

Next up is the scarf, another item that is much more common should you live in a metropolitan area without universal access to cars. While there is no necessary association other than being French, the scarf, when worn correctly, is a practical and stylish addition to the winter wardrobe. If you spend much time on social media you may know there is a heated debate among Gen Z and Millennials about scarf styling. Let us know how you wrap your scarves.

For a more traditional eye, as long as you ensure your scarf is longer than 40 inches and does not contain too much synthetic material (we recommend <30%), you will have plenty of softness to wrap your neck in. Normally we would be opposed to synthetic materials entirely although for scarves it can make them more comfortable and wearable for longer periods of time. Raw wool has a tendency to be itchy over time on your neck as it is a more sensitive area. Due to this we recommend a soft cashmere or lambswool in a solid color or tartan pattern. You can find quality ones secondhand from eBay or new from a variety of retailers. The classic Burberry tartan scarf or Ralph Lauren’s offerings this season that can be found here; most of which are traditionally styled and made of high-quality wool.

Venturing into new territory, something that we feel is extremely underrated in winter wear, a traditionally styled wool or felt hat. Be it a newsboy, beanie, flat cap, or fedora, it may be necessary on exceptionally cold days and can come in handy for a Halloween costume or two. The associations vary wildly based on your style choice; we believe a fedora is best worn with a suit for historical and aesthetic accuracy, or a Halloween evening spent as a detective. Flat caps and newsboys are much more approachable should you want to venture outside of beanie territory, and are warmer as a result of the heavier wool fabric. If you have a grey three-piece suit like the one Jack wrote about in our eBay Chronicles series a few weeks ago (check that out here), it’s an easy signifier of a Peaky Blinder around Halloween too.

Aside from beanie styles (one is shown above), vintage is the recommended route here, as both milliners and fabrics used for hats are not what they used to be. If you do live in NYC though, the milliner community is still very strong in places like the East Village and Upper East Side. Ensure any fedoras are rabbit felt, and that any caps are tweed. We recommend browsing eBay or visiting East Village Hats if you are in NYC or Salmagundi Hats for our Boston crowd.

“A quick swig of an aged bourbon or 12-year-old scotch has the unique ability to stabilize your internal temperature.”

Hear me out on this one—a stainless steel hip flask. You can wear as much tweed and shetland wool as you’d like, January in the northeast will still chill you to your core. A sip of an aged bourbon or 12-year-old scotch has the unique ability to stabilize your internal temperature. A personal favorite shape of ours is circular rather than the traditional rectangular style, as this allows the flask to be a little lower profile while still maintaining a healthy 6oz size. Of course, we are not advocating bringing it to work and depleting it during the day; rather for the walk to the train station after a particularly trying day, or while venturing to a Saturday night rendezvous with your closest well-dressed friends.

Lastly, but no less important if you’re like the author and prone to cold weather mucus, the handkerchief. There are few brands that still make the real thing, but we can recommend Brooks Brothers (who is having quite the renaissance currently in many ways, be on the lookout for a write-up about them), who make sets of 3, 7, or 12. Pure cotton is best for the winter, linen for the summer. This shouldn’t be something you use as a pocket square, rather something you keep on the opposite inside jacket pocket in case you or one of your cohorts need it. Winter winds can be relentless, and keeping up a clean and hygienic appearance is always in your best interest, you never know who you’ll run into.

We at TNBC will always be proponents of the classics, and this list combines items with history and practicality to give you the warmest and most comfortable winter you’ve ever lived. While we stand behind our recommendations, we encourage you not to take them as gospel, and also explore local, small business options in your area. The old fashioned products industry is a dying one, and we believe in doing our best to keep it breathing for the next generation of gentlemen.