Brooks Brothers Fall/Winter Collection 2025
Equestrian Style Lies at the Heart of an Impressive Seasonal Offering
The sack coat is perhaps the most interesting piece of American tailoring. Standing in stark contradiction to anything the British had ever made, and borrowing virtually nothing from Italian or French tailoring, the sack coat stands alone as a unique piece of menswear history pioneered by Brooks Brothers since 1818. This season, in contrast to their sack blazers, Brooks Brothers takes many cues from English country silhouettes, fabrics, and motifs. A welcome advancement from what was a decade plus of being just barely too far behind the times, Brooks has impressed us at TNBC for this fall and winter.
First, suits and tailoring. From the 1910s to 1950s, the American business suit was defined in the relaxed and unstructured sack cut. It was the best cut for ready to wear as it accommodated the widest range of body types, and helped perpetuate ideals like post-war corporate conformity in the 1950s. Fast forward to 2025, and the first suit you see on the Brooks Brothers website is the “No. 1 Sack Suit in Pinstripe Wool Flannel.” While this may not be a true mid-century cut, it is a decidedly relaxed departure from the silhouettes seen from Brooks in the last 10 years, in a classic fabric that is sure to be timeless. The lapels are a decent size, and the two-button jacket sleeve and single vent provide classic American details that have set Brooks apart in the past. There is one other fabric option in this cut, a classic navy flannel option for someone who might feel pinstripe is too bold. Brooks does, however, fall short in much of their styling on web-based imagery, where jacket lengths barely get to the start of the thumb, as well as suits labeled “traditional fit” with a model wearing a suit likely a size too small, which just doesn’t convey the look most customers are looking for. There also seems to be no pattern for which suits are sold as one item, and which are two separate items that should be bought in tandem (Our recommendation is to check the ‘Complete The Look’ section to ensure you aren’t buying an orphan jacket). When purchased in the right size and given some tailoring these suits can be generational classics. The slim fit synthetic blend suits hide in the background under the Explorer line, no doubt to cater to the financial analysts splurging on their first suit.
“one could purchase only a few of the sweaters from this collection and have everything he needs by way of casual weekend warmth and office-ready cashmere. “
The new season offers lovely texture throughout the entire collection, most noticeably in knits (this texture continued into their dress shirts as well which a store rep made sure to make us aware of although we don’t go into dress shirts here). From 1950s references like the johnny collar cashmere polos to British country style motif sweaters in merino wool, this collection offers a great range of formality and texture. A standout for us at TNBC is the shawl collar cardigan sweater in a lovely windowpane intarsia complete with suede elbow pads, which would be an excellent statement piece for a holiday party. The ‘Ultimate Merino Wool Crewneck Sweater’ felt thin in store although this could be a stylistic decision for a year-round garment. Other sweaters in brushed wool and merino cable knit provide a complete collection for a TNBC reader; one could purchase only a few of the sweaters from this collection and have everything he needs by way of casual weekend warmth and office-ready cashmere. Most of these sweaters have a surprisingly vintage-inspired fit, more cropped at the waist than what we’re used to seeing from the likes of Brooks or Ralph Lauren. The added benefit of (nearly) all natural materials gives this set of knits the texture that a classic wardrobe needs this time of year. This section of the collection is somewhat immune to the majority synthetic blends and the preferences of the financial district towards quarter zips (though those are still at the bottom of the “New Arrivals” page and notably hidden away at their downtown store).
A great pairing for those classic-fit sweaters would be a proper pair of regular or high rise pants in an equally interesting texture to tie together a visually appealing and thermally insulating look. The pant offerings from the new season are a near 50/50 split of what we would consider within the aforementioned category and those that wouldn’t. We have noticed since COVID that BB has had a tough time with its pant offerings, usually with the more casual options like chino and flannel coming up short (and low). Regardless, corduroy pants are the standouts in this category, coming in both regular and relaxed cuts, thin and wide wales, and one with a prep-style (go-to-hell) pheasant embroidery. Very fairly priced especially on their holiday sale prices, however even the regular and relaxed fits have up to 2% elastane (Deep dive covering these corduroys coming soon). Another standout pair is the Classic Fit Wool Twill Dress Pants, appearing high rise with a double pleat and stylish coin pocket in 100% wool with a half lining. For other cotton and wool materials, the main disappointment comes from the low rise and slim leg many of them possess. Especially in winter, when many outfits are very top heavy - think an undershirt, button down, sweater, and jacket. The pant pairing should follow suit and be roomier as not to appear lopsided, however even the styling in some of the product photos has this incongruity on full display. This is not only visually unsatisfying, but makes the models (and you) look shorter from a distance as it does nothing to elongate the leg like a higher rise model would. Combine that and the limited size range that Brooks offers, and this part of the fall collection misses the mark for an enthusiast of a more vintage fit although those who don’t mind a more contemporary preference may be satisfied.
“While we are normally advocates for 100% natural materials, outerwear, especially utility outerwear, has room for synthetics so it can serve its intended purpose”
An unexpected highlight and the main source of the countryside influence in this new fall offering is the non-tailored outerwear. Many shooting references are made through suede patches, shoulder padding, and quilted mid layers that strike a great balance between the ruggedness of the countryside and the smoothness of the modern city street. What stood out to us was the Cotton Field Jacket. This field jacket strikes a great note somewhere between the Barbour Belted Jacket and a classic field jacket, with utilitarian details like a removable shearling collar and extended hand covers at the end of the sleeves. It comes in a surprising 100% cotton, which in person looks and feels softer than the website lets on, not exactly the rugged woven material. While we are normally advocates for 100% natural materials, outerwear, especially utility outerwear, has room for synthetics so it can serve its intended purpose. You’ll find some polyamide in blends and full polyester mid layers, but these are necessary evils if you’re hunting pheasant or traversing through Midtown on your way to get Cava. An outerwear garment that we believe has wonderful wardrobe potential is the Bomber Jacket which we believe would be more aptly named a Harrington jacket in their collection. Coming in a wonderful vintage style with a cropped elasticized waist and signature vertical pockets, not to mention a higher natural material content than the gold standard Baracuta G9, this comes in as a wonderful alternative to that jacket in a classic beige. We are not too impressed with the other color offerings, and feel this was an area that could have been more impactful.
TNBC particularly enjoyed the new releases in the neckwear section of New Arrivals as well: elements of equestrian style and the British countryside shine through as continued references. The collection is small but mighty, and Jack has his eye on the Hunting Scene and club-style ties. Belts, while not made by Brooks themselves, continue these motifs in needlepoint variations. While BB has always carried fantastic Scotland-made scarves, the new patterns this season can be skipped, but be sure to check on the pocket square offered in a delightful wool tartan. Accessories can make a good outfit great, and are one of the separators of enthusiasts and those who are just wearing clothes.
The recent craze among enthusiasts and analysts alike of Barbour and its associated countryside aesthetics have no doubt influenced what we’re seeing from Brooks Brothers this season. While this certainly means we are seeing more classic styling and details with intention of making the garment last a lifetime, these higher priced items have some sacrifices made either in material or build quality. This will either make the Explorer line seem more attractive, or have you paying to fix your garments a few years down the line. Ultimately, Brooks must cater to its largest audience of professional men who may go to Brooks asking what they should be interested in, not necessarily finding out for themselves what they are interested in. This requires the company to dilute some of the more authentic details and styling to appeal to the widest audience possible. A story much like that of Brooks pioneering the concept of ready-to-wear with their sack suit this review began with. We at TNBC are happy to see Brooks going in this direction regardless, and the tendency of the brand to be just a little bit behind the menswear zeitgeist means that they’ll have time to iron out some issues presented in this review, so keep your browser tuned to their website and your mind on the brand in the coming years to see if these classic blueprints can be improved year over year and season over season.
