The eBay Chronicles: #004

A Cold Weather Staple with Timeless Appeal

An unusually warm first few weeks of autumn has meant that white trousers and seersucker have stayed in rotation longer than expected. Normally, I wouldn’t welcome an extended summer. Like many enthusiasts, I’m anxious to get the wardrobe switched over to fall, when many of us come alive. Albeit, I felt this was the first summer I had a solid grip on warm weather classics, so I relished in a few extra wears. However, as of October, the time is finally here and the switch over has been made. Settled between herringbone sport coats and Polo RL sweaters, the star of my valet stand this autumn and winter will be an impeccable vintage 1970s grey flannel wool three-piece suit.

A truly timeless fabric and color, this suit marks my third from the 1970s, which has quickly become my favorite era for vintage suits. Not in the flashy, polyester-clad way that comes to mind, but in a 70s interpretation of 60s sense: natural materials, high rise trousers, and a delightful slimming cut. The option to wear boots in lieu of oxfords adds a nice touch of versatility, and on this particular suit the reasonably sized lapels (by 70s standards) allow for ties of many widths. To me, this is the sweet spot with 1970s tailoring. There is a lot of polyester and way-too-large lapels to sift through on the secondary markets, but with some patience, a gem like this will shine its way through to bestow on you a unique piece of menswear history. Most kinds of apparel from this era tend to be easier to find and less expensive on the secondhand market due to the bad rap of 70s menswear. This was acquired for $30 + $50 of tailoring, with a few small fabric fixes needed as well.

A decidedly classic fit, this suit has a long jacket length and American-style long jacket sleeves, thus carrying vintage appeal. However, not so much that I can’t wear it regularly or risk looking as if I’m in a costume. Additionally, the ability to wear the pants on their own will add a nice touch of smartness to an outfit I may have otherwise worn khakis or my favorite pair of Polo RL corduroys with, as seen below.

I find myself more recently attracted to the 3-piece when I’m looking for staple suits in my wardrobe. Perhaps it has to do with the upped formality and cleaner lines created by the waistcoat, as well as its ability to make a tie pop out from the collar a little more imposingly. The added flexibility of wearing it as a 2-piece gives me two suits in one, especially when purchased in colors like dark navy, charcoal grey, and chocolate brown.

I see myself wearing this extremely often as the days get colder, whether as a full 3-piece, 2-piece, or the pants with a navy blazer. No matter the combination, expect to see the pieces of this suit alongside an array of white, blue, pink, and striped shirts, complete with textured ties and brown suede brogues for a look befitting a tenured teacher in The Holdovers.

Styled as separates with a vintage Palm Beach sport coat, J. Crew OCBD, and G.H. Bass horse-bit loafers. Styled as a suit with a Brooks Brothers shirt, GANT tie, and Cole Haan shoes. Rather helpfully, you’ll notice the bottom button on the waistcoat is missing, not that I’d need it anyways.